From the book 'Frommer's Brazil'.
Rio offers an endless variety of places to eat. There are the chopperias, the place for cold beer and casual munchies. Slightly more upscale are the botequins, many of which are open to the early hours. There are hundreds of food kiosks, each with its own specialty, be it barbecued prawns, Bahian finger food, or vegetarian sandwiches. And on top of all that, there’s a wide variety of restaurants in all neighborhoods, ranging from inexpensive to very expensive, from simple sandwiches to delicious steaks, from fresh sushi to the complicated stews and sauces of Brazil’s Northeast. There’s no excuse for going hungry in Rio.
Most restaurants are open from around 11am until 4pm and then again from 7pm until midnight or later. There are also quite a few establishments that will stay open all day, especially on the weekends when people leave the beach at 4pm to go eat lunch. Sunday is often the busiest day for lunch as extended families get together for a meal. Many restaurants close Sunday evening. The exception to these hours is in Rio’s downtown, where restaurants cater to the office crowd; only a few of them remain open evenings and weekends.
CENTRO
Expensive
Cais do Oriente
ASIAN/MEDITERRANEAN.
This 19th-century warehouse has been transformed into a stunning restaurant and bar, complete with large gilt mirrors and opulent antique furniture. The menu travels from the Orient to the Mediterranean, including dishes such as sweet-and-sour duck and fried rice tossed with cashews and pistachio nuts, and prawn risotto with basil and grilled salmon served with a Gorgonzolaand-ricotta-stuffed pancake. The upstairs bar is a great venue for live music on Fridays or Saturdays. Rua Visconde de Itaboraí 8, Centro. 021/2233-2531. www.caisdooriente.com.br. Main courses R$32–R$58. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–midnight; Sun–Mon noon–4pm. In the evenings, taxi recommended. Bus: 119. Get off 1 stop past the Praça XV.
BRAZILIAN/DESSERT.
This stunning Victorian tearoom hasn’t changed much since it opened in 1894. Two large counters at the entrance serve up sweets and snacks with coffee or other refreshments. The rest of the ground floor features an elegant tearoom, where a variety of teas, sandwiches, and sweets are served on fine china underneath a ’20s stained-glass window. The upstairs is for full lunches—on Saturdays the feijoada (black beans and pork stew) is worth a trip downtown. Tip: A branch of the Confeitaria Colombo is inside the Forte Copacabana, with a smaller menu but fabulous views. Rua Gonçalves Dias 32, Centro. 021/2505-1500. www.confeitariacolombo.com.br. Tearoom snacks and lunches R$10–R$35; buffet lunch or Sat feijoada buffet R$55 including dessert. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 8:30am–7pm; Sat 9am–5pm. Metrô: Carioca.
Sagrada Familia
BRAZILIAN.
The second floor of a renovated 19th-century warehouse forms the site for one of Rio’s most popular and innovative lunchtime spots. The menu focuses on meats—chicken, beef, duck—but tries to mix things up, thus the chicken filet with brie, and almond rice, or the filet mignon in a pepper crust, with Gorgonzola sauce. (There are also more traditional salads, pasta, and meat dishes.) The wine list offers one of Rio’s larger selections by the glass or half-bottle, as well as a good selection of bottles below the R$80 mark, from South America, Portugal, and Spain.Rua do Rosario 98 (upstairs), Centro. 021/2252-2240. www.lasagradafamilia.com.br. Main courses R$20–R$38. AE, DC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3:30pm. Metrô: Carioca.
Moderate
Bar Brasil
BOTEQUIM.
This bustling botequim on the busiest corner of the Lapa entertainment zone offers tasty pastel snacks—try the bolinhos de bacalhau (cod pastries)— meat-filled croquettes, and steaming little sausages with mustard. The draft beer comes in clear and dark flavors, both cold with a thick topping of foam. There are tables inside, but for prime people-watching grab a stool on the patio. Av. Mem de Sà 90, Lapa. 021/2509-5943. R$10–R$25. DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–6pm. Bus: 464.
Bistro do Paço
BRAZILIAN.
This is the perfect spot to escape the heat and noise in downtown. Inside the historic Paço Imperial, the thick whitewashed walls keep out the bustle while you recharge your batteries in the cool shade of the inner courtyard. The restaurant serves mostly bistro fare as well as a daily lunch special that will set you back R$15 to R$26 for a plate of roast beef with a side order of pasta, and spinach crepes with a ricotta-and-mushroom stuffing. For a light snack try a quiche, a freshly made sandwich with grilled vegetables, or a cold-cut plate. Desserts are strictly European: Austrian linzertortes, German fruit strudels, and Black Forest chocolate cakes, all of which go so well with a Brazilian cafezinho. Praça XV 48 (inside the Paço Imperial), Centro. 021/2262-3613. Main courses R$18–R$35; sandwiches and quiches R$10–R$22. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–8pm; Sat noon–7pm. Bus: 415.
Boteco Casual
BOTEQUIM.
In the heart of Rio’s historic district just off Praça XV, this little bar-restaurant offers delicious cold beer and Portuguese specialties like stuffed octopus flavored with port, or salted grilled sardines. For dessert, try the pastel de nata. And if this little bar is packed, there’s a bunch of others right alongside. Rua do Ouvidor 26, Centro. 021/2232-0250. Main courses R$10–R$25. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2am; Sat 11am–6pm. Bus: 119 or 415 to Praça XV.
Inexpensive
Beco das Sardinhas (Rei dos Frangos Maritimos)
BRAZILIAN.
Known as “the sardine triangle,” this corner in Rio’s historic downtown is the perfect place to spend a Friday afternoon as locals gather to unwind from the workweek. It started in the ’60s when the Portuguese owners of three small restaurants began selling fried sardines. They would cut open the fish and fry them like a filet, dubbed frango maritimo (chicken of the sea) by a jesting customer, and the name stuck to one of the restaurants. These days the triangle has expanded to include six restaurants in a pedestrian area between Rua do Acre and Rua Mayrink Veiga. Every Friday after 6pm it transforms into a giant TGIF party. The patio tables and counters fill up almost as quickly as the fried sardines, salted and breaded in manioc flour, come piping hot off the grill. Accompanied by a loira gelada (“icy blond,” the local nickname for draft), it’s the perfect way to start a weekend. Rua Miguel Couto 139, Centro. 021/2233-6119. Everything under R$15. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm. Metrô: Uruguaiana.
Paladino
BRAZILIAN.
Is Paladino a deli, with racks of spices and jars of capers and artichoke hearts? Is it a liquor store, as the hundreds of glass bottles lined up in gleaming wooden cases seem to suggest? Or is it a bustling lunch bar with some of the best draft beer in town? Is an exact definition really important? What matters is that the beer is clear and cold and comes at the wave of a finger, the atmosphere is that of Rio in the Belle Epoque, and the sandwiches and snack plates are delicious. Pratinhos, as the latter are known in Portuguese, cost next to nothing—R$4 to R$8—and come loaded with sardines or olives, cheese, or great heaping stacks of smoked sausage. All this delectable nosh is served up by old-fashioned waiters in black pants and white shirts. Since 1907, an eclectic mix of lawyers, shopkeepers, workers, and executives has come here, and though none have ever succeeded in defining exactly what it is, they’ve never stopped coming. Rua Uruguaiana 226, Centro. 021/2263-2094.
Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches and side dishes R$4–R$15. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 7am–8:30pm; Sat 8am–noon. Metrô: Uruguaiana.
SANTA TERESA
Expensive
BRAZILIAN.
Much of the charm of this Santa Teresa fixture comes from its setting in a hilltop mansion. Tables spill out over the gardens and patios, offering views of downtown Rio by day, and warm and exotic lighting in the evening. View junkies should ask for a table on the house veranda, or on the patio tables outside by the bar. The food, while good, doesn’t quite rise to the same standard. The kitchen serves up an intriguing variation on Brazilian cuisine, using many ingredients from the Nordeste region. Interesting starters include fresh grilled palm hearts, and pumpkin cream soup with prawns. The signature main is the peixe tropical, grilled fish in an orange sauce, served with coconut rice and baked banana. Rua Aprazível 62, Santa Teresa. 021/2508-9174. www.aprazivel.com.br. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$38–R$55. AE, MC, V. Thurs 8pm–midnight; Fri–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 1–6pm. Taxi recommended.
Espirito Santa
BRAZILIAN
Espirito Santa proves there’s no great secret to success—a cute restaurant, a great patio looking out over Santa Teresa, and excellent and inventive Brazilian cuisine. Chef Natacha Fink hails from the Amazon, and it shows in her menu. The signature starter is the tambaqui “ribs”—made of tambaqui (a popular Amazonian fish) lightly breaded and served with a pesto of jambu herbs. The mujica de piranha (piranha soup) is thick and tasty. For salads, there’s one with toasted Brazil nuts and a passion-fruit vinaigrette. The classic fish dish is a grilled namorado with a cashew crust, served on a bed of grilled fresh palm heart. Meat lovers should try the bacuri steak, grilled filet mignon served with a bacuri (Amazonian fruit) sauce and mashed sweet potatoes. Or try grilled filet of duck in açai sauce.
For dessert, there’s warm gâteau filled with guava cream and cheese, or ice cream of cupuaçu. Rua Almirante Alexandrino 264, Santa Teresa. 021/2508-7095. www.espiritosanta.com.br. Main courses R$28–R$55. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon, Wed, and Sun noon–7pm; Thurs–Sat noon–midnight. Bus: 214, or take the tram, getting off just before the Largo dos Guimarães.
Térèze
ASIAN/MEDITERRANEAN
Here you’ll find sophisticated dining on a hilltop in the heights of Rio’s most historic neighborhood, with a view of treetops, colonial houses, and the city and bay below. The menu offers an upscale take on fusion: miso-marinated lamb, grilled and served with wok-fried vegetables, gyoza with sweet and-sour maracujá dipping sauce, or grilled cherne with cashew tapenade. Desserts can be equally creative, such as the macaroni-shaped chocolates with hazelnut farofa and vanilla ice cream. On Thursdays there’s a tasting menu, featuring smaller portions and matched wines. In the Hotel Santa Teresa, Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660, Santa Teresa. 021/2222-2755. www. tereze.com.br. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$38–R$65. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–5pm and 8pm–midnight; Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–5pm. Taxi recommended.
Moderate
SEAFOOD.
Things have gone downhill at this hilltop spot. For years, we recommended Sobrenatural for its seafood and spacious ambience, but over the past year or so prices have risen while quality has declined, and the restaurant has come to focus increasingly on the tourist trade at the expense of its local clientele. For better food at a comparable price, seek out Espirito Santa (see above) a few doors down, while for cheap and cheerful Brazilian cuisine, there’s Bar do Mineiro. Rua Almirante Alexandrino 432, Santa Teresa. 021/2224-1003. Main courses R$55–R$75 for 2. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Bus: 214, or take the tram, getting off at the Largo dos Guimarães.
Inexpensive
Bar do Mineiro
BRAZILIAN.
Minas Gerais is looked on as the source of downhome hearty comfort food. Bar do Mineiro is a little piece of Minas in Santa Teresa. Meals are hearty and portions generous. Appetizers include sausages and pasteis—savory pastries with a variety of stuffings, including sausage, cheese, or cabbage. The frango com quiabo (stewed chicken with okra) is popular, as is the Feijão tropeiro. There’s also a very good (and very Carioca) feijoada. Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno 99, Santa Teresa. 021/2221-9227. Main courses R$14–R$28. AE, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–2am; Fri–Sat 11am–3am; Sun 11am–midnight. Bus: 214, or take the tram, getting off at the Largo dos Guimarães.
URCA
Moderate
Bar Urca
BOTEQUIM.
This tiny botequim has one of the best views in the city— or does if you make like the locals, and drink your beer and munch from the delicious selection of pastels on the sea wall overlooking Botafogo Bay. (Waiters used to cross the street and serve you in situ, but due to a recent crackdown customers now have to order in the restaurant and carry their wares to the sea wall themselves.) If you do go inside, sit upstairs with a window view and order one of the delicious seafood stews—fish or prawns or octopus in a rich broth, with rice and pirão on the side. Don’t think of drinking anything but beer. Rua Candido Gaffree 205, Urca. 021/2295-8744. www.barurca.com.br. Main courses R$10–R$35. DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–11pm. Metrô: Integração from Botofogo.
Circulo Militar
BRAZILIAN.
Whenever we hanker for dinner and a view we head to the Circulo Militar. This fabulous view of the Sugarloaf and Bay comes courtesy of the Brazilian armed forces. From the tree-shaded patio of a military club in Urca called the Circulo Militar, you look out across a tiny bay full of fishing boats to the sheer solid sides of the Sugarloaf. Civilians are completely welcome. The menu serves up standard Brazilian fare (the two stars are for the view, not for the food) such as the churrasco for two with beef, sausage, chicken, and pork served with fries and rice. In the evenings the kitchen fires up the wood-burning oven and turns out some decent pizzas. There’s live music from 8pm onward, Tuesday through Sunday. Praça General Tiburcio s/n, Praia Vermelha (on the far right, inside the military complex). 021/2275-7245. www.cmpv.com.br. Main courses R$24–R$42. No credit cards. Daily noon–midnight. Bus: 107 from downtown, 512 from Ipanema and Copacabana.
FLAMENGO/GLORIA/CATETE
Very Expensive
Porcão
BRAZILIAN/STEAK.
A mass carnivorous orgy, Porcão is where you go not to sample or taste or nibble, but to munch and stuff and gorge yourself on some of the best beef the world has to offer—in this case served up with some of the best views in the world. Porcão is a churrascaria (a chain, in fact; there are several in Rio, but this one has the best view) operating on the rodízio system. It’s one price for all you can eat (dessert and drinks are extra), and once you sit down, an onslaught of waiters comes bearing all manner of meat (steak cuts, roast cuts, filet mignon, chicken breast, chicken hearts, sausage, and much more) which they slice to perfection on your plate. Oh, and don’t forget the nonmeat dishes: Included in your meal is a buffet with dozens of antipasto items, hot and cold seafood dishes, and at least 15 different kinds of salads and cheeses.
Alas, no doggy bags allowed. Av. Infante Dom Henrique s/n, Parque do Flamengo. 021/2554-8535. www.porcao.com.br. Reservations accepted. R$75 per person all-you-can-eat meat and buffet. 50% discount for children 6–9, free for children 5 and under. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am. Taxi recommended.
Expensive
BRAZILIAN/PASTA.
This lovely two-story restaurant overlooking the Aterro do Flamengo is one of the best restaurants in Flamengo. The ground floor has a small wine bar and a few tables but you really want to head upstairs and, if possible, grab one of the window tables in the elegant L-shaped dining room. The chef’s forte is pasta; all dishes are made fresh and combine some creative flavors. We loved the ravioli with prawns in a leek sauce with mushrooms as well as the Tortele Tricolor, pasta rounds stuffed with smoked ricotta, figs, and Parma ham. Steak lovers have plenty to choose from, including filet mignon medallions with grilled brie and potatoes, or grilled tournedos in a balsamic jus, served with rice and mushrooms. The wine list has over 400 options covering most of the world’s regions, many reasonably priced (under R$70). Praia do Flamengo 2, Flamengo. 021/2245-6274. www.emporiosantafe.com. Reservations accepted. R$35–R$65 main courses. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs noon–midnight; Fri–Sat noon–2am. Bus: Any bus to Praia do Flamengo.
Moderate
Adega Portugalia
PORTUGUESE.
This simple little bar/restaurant looks out on the Largo do Machado, a graceful Rio urban square. Sample a plate of appetizers— cheese, olives, spiced potatoes, octopus—from the counter deli, order a portion of frango a pasarinho (garlic baked chicken wings), or sample a steak or Portuguesa pizza. Make sure to order a chopp to go with the munchies. Largo do Machado 30, Flamengo. 021/2558-2821. Reservations not accepted. R$15–R$30. MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 10am–6pm. Metrô: Largo do Machado.
Estação da República
KILO.
The Estação is top of the heap in that unique Brazilian category, the kilo restaurant. It offers a daily selection of at least 20 salads, a range of pastas, pizza, and many Brazilian favorites such as feijoada (bean stew), vatapá (seafood stew), and bobó (shrimp stew). Fancier dishes include carpaccio and sushi. The pièce de résistance is the grill in the back of the restaurant where skilled chefs serve you a choice of beef, chicken, and a wide assortment of fish. You can have your meat nearly raw or very well done; just ask the chef. It’s a great place for children; they can see the food and try as much or as little as they like. Make your selection, weigh your plate, and find yourself a seat; drinks are served at your table. Rua do Catete 104, Catete. 021/2128-5650. www.estacaorepublica.com.br. Reservations not accepted. R$32 per kilo. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Metrô: Catete.
BOTAFOGO
Expensive
Kotobuki
JAPANESE.
The food at Kotobuki is good, very good even, but it’s not really better than a number of other Japanese restaurants around Rio. What is outstanding is what you’re watching while you eat. Kotobuki offers a sweeping view of Botafogo Bay with the pretty boats at anchor in the marina, and, backstopping it all, the soaring Pão de Açúcar. Located in the seventh-floor food court of the Botafogo Praia Shopping (I know, but food-court food is different in Brazil), Kotobuki offers lunchtime specials including the prato executivo: 15 pieces of sushi and sashimi with a miso soup (called misoshuri in Brazil), or beef stir-fry with rice and miso and a sunomuno salad. The teppanyaki for two is skillfully prepared at your table, as the chef cooks up thin slices of beef, tofu, and vegetables. Praia de Botafogo 400, 7th floor, Botafogo.
FUSION.
Better late than never! Tapas has finally made it to Rio at Oui Oui, which has created a wonderful menu of 20 small dishes that can be combined into a very satisfying meal. Start off with a refreshing Moranguito cocktail (sparkling wine, strawberries, and mint) and a plate of spring rolls stuffed with fresh figs and shredded duck. Other interesting dishes include the vegetable risotto with mascarpone, spicy grilled beef with lemon grass, and the shrimp moqueca stew with cashew nuts and mango. The hands down (and finger-licking) winner was the portion of caramelized spareribs served with a pumpkin and goat cheese purée, topped with toasted almonds. It probably violates the cardinal rule of tapas eating, but next time I am not sharing that dish! The wine list is a tad overpriced, but does contain a few good deals such as a South African chenin blanc for R$64. Rua Conde de Irajá 85, Humaitá. 021/2527-3537. Main courses R$17–R$26. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 7:30pm–1am. Metrô: Integração Botafogo.
Moderate
Café Prefacio
CAFE
Books. Wine. Food. Food. Books. Wine. No matter how you put the words together, it’s a winning combination. This bookstore/cafe (or cafe/bookstore) in the Botofogo cinema zone offers good coffee, wine by the glass, and a simple menu of delicious sandwiches and salads. Seating is at the coffee bar in the front, or the mezzanines above the bookshelves, or in the small dining room at the back. Browse the titles while awaiting your order (there’s an English-language section, and a wide selection of art books), or order up a bottle of Argentine Malbec (R$40 or so) and stay the night. Rua Voluntarios de Patria 39, Botafogo. 021/2527-5699. www.prefaciolivrarias.com.br. Reservations not accepted. Main courses R$15–R$30. MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–11pm; Sun 4:30–11pm. Metrô: Botafogo.
Meza Bar
TAPAS.
It may be time for a new review category: the gourmet bar. Meza has all the trappings of a hip bar: a beautiful heritage building in trendy Humaitá, modern and funky decorations that spill out over several rooms, a discreet DJ, free Wi-Fi, and awesome drinks. How about a “Hot Chip”—a cachaça or vodka cocktail with watermelon, cardamom, and basil, or the Apple Mojito, with premium rum, lime juice, mint, and caramelized apple? My favorite is the Bordello, sake with peach liquor, lychee, and basil. There is food and it’s light-years ahead of your average pub grub. From the kitchen comes a steady flow of small dishes, like spicy chicken with lime and tequila, tuna tartare with orange and Parmesan crisps, quinoa salad with a grilled squid skewer, or a spicy Thai salad with shrimp and mango. Rua Capitão Salomão 69, Humaitá. 021/3239-1951. www.mezabar.com.br. Main courses R$12–R$17. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Wed 6pm–1am; Thurs–Sat 6pm–3am. Bus: 176.
Inexpensive
Bar do Adão
BOTEQUIM.
This lovely heritage house in Botafogo houses an excellent bar that serves up the best pasteis in town, or the second-best pasteis, as the original Bar do Adão in the Zona Norte neighborhood of Grajau first developed their recipe for success. Made out of light fluffy dough, the pasteis come in an amazing variety of fillings, are quickly deep-fried, and arrive piping hot at your table. The 60 different flavors include brie and apricot, Gorgonzola and sun-dried tomato, prawns and cream cheese, shiitake mushrooms and more. On Tuesday nights it is two for one. Rua Dona Mariana 81, Botafogo. 021/2535-4572. www.bardoadao.com.br. Reservations not accepted. Main courses R$10–R$25. MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Metrô: Botafogo.
COPACABANA/LEME
Very Expensive
Le Pré Catelan
FRENCH.
Even after a decade as one of Rio’s top celebrity chefs, Roland Villard still manages to offer diners a “wow” every time. After transforming the staid old hotel dining room into a stylish and trendy lounge overlooking Copacabana beach, it was time for the next challenge. Inspired by a trip to the Brazilian rainforest, he spent several years researching and preparing his latest project: a 10-course menu of exclusively Amazonian dishes. Guests receive a booklet with pictures and descriptions of all the ingredients and dishes, such as the Tucanaré brandade with coconut milk, roasted tapioca stuffed with freshwater crustaceans, pirarucu fish with a cashew crust served in a mouth-tingling jambu sauce. Other dishes include tambaqui “cutlets” in a red wine jus and the outstanding sparerib confit in a sweet-tangy jabuticaba sauce. Tropical fruit granités are served as palate cleansers between courses. Sommelier Jean Pierre pairs these fantastic flavors with some excellent wines. Guests can also order from the a la carte menu, but you would be foolish to miss this amazing Amazon dining experience! Hotel Sofitel, Av. Atlântica 4240, Copacabana. 021/2525-1160. Reservations required. Main courses R$88; Amazon 10-course tasting menu R$230. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 7:30–11:30pm; Thurs–Sat 7:30pm–midnight. Bus: 415.
STEAK.
One of the better all-you-can-eat rodízio restaurants, Marius serves up prime cuts of beef. In addition to this carnivore’s dream, the buffet also includes excellent seafood such as fresh oysters, shrimp, langoustines, smoked salmon, and paella, in addition to salads and other side dishes. But back to what we came for. Here at Marius, waiters will come out over and over with your favorite cuts of steak, whether it is juicy tender rib-eye, T-bone, rack of lamb, or any of the other kinds of typical Brazilian beef cuts such as maminha, alcatra, picanha, and fraldinha. Av. Atlântica 290A, Leme. 021/2543-6363. www.marius.com.br. Reservations accepted. R$119 per person, all-you-can-eat buffet. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–4pm and 6pm–midnight; Sat–Sun noon–midnight. Bus: 472.
Expensive
ITALIAN.
For traditional Italian food in a cozy little bistro, look no further than Da Brambini. To start off, indulge in the couvert—a tasty antipasto platter with olives, salami, tuna paste, grilled eggplant, and freshly baked breads. Other worthwhile appetizers include the polenta with fresh funghi or Gorgonzola. Main courses include veal with mushrooms, traditional osso buco (veal shanks stewed in wine), as well as a number of outstanding pasta dishes. Da Brambini certainly doesn’t skimp on ingredients; the handmade ravioli with shrimp is just swimming with the little critters, all smothered in a creamy seafood sauce. The linguine with mussels, sururu (a tiny clam), and vongole are equally tasty. For wine, Da Brambini offers a good selection of Italian reds, starting at R$45 a bottle.
The service is unhurried, and the staff is happy to let you linger over your dinner. Av. Atlântica 514, Leme. 021/2275-4346. www.dabrambini.com.br. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$28–R$55. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–1am. Bus: 472.
Siri Mole
BAHIAN.
Siri Mole is one of the best Bahian restaurants in town. Although the location on the corner of the busy Rua Francisco Otaviano is less than inspired, the food is worth the trip. The moquecas are outstanding, perfectly balancing the mix of coconut milk, red dendê palm oil, and fresh cilantro that give this dish its signature flavor. Try a moqueca with prawns, octopus, fish, or lagoustine. The grilled seafood or fish are also excellent. Portions are a reasonable size and can often be shared. During Saturday’s lunch buffet (noon–5pm) the restaurant serves up a variety of delicacies (R$42 per person, all you can eat).
Make sure to save room for dessert. There’s quindim, a creamy coconut pudding, or cocada—pure coconut mixed with pure cane sugar—then wash it down with a hot and black cafezinho. Tip: For the same excellent food in a waterfront location, try the Sire Mole in one of the new kiosks on the Copacabana beachfront, opposite the Rua Bolivar: Siri Mole Prai (021/3684-6671; www.sirimolepraia.com.br; Tues–Sun 9am–midnight). Rua Francisco Otaviano 50, Copacabana. 021/2267-0894. www.sirimole.com.br. Reservations accepted. Main courses R$60–R$95. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 7pm–midnight; Tues–Sun noon–midnight. Bus: 415.
Moderate
PORTUGUESE.
Portuguese cooking is a staple of Brazilian cuisine, but somewhat more rare in North America. This lovely neighborhood restaurant, tucked away off Avenida N.S. de Copacabana, is one of the best places in Rio to give Portuguese dishes a try. The house specialties always include bacalhau (salted codfish). Start off with the perfectly deep-fried bolinhos de bacalhau (codfish dumplings).
The classic main dish here is the bacalhau à Bras, oven-baked codfish served with potatoes, scrambled egg, onion, and olives. Portions are huge, but half-portions are available. We found that with appetizers and dessert, a half-portion was plenty for two people. (For non–cod lovers, there’s sole á belle meuniére, or grilled octopus with red peppers.) The wine list includes some excellent Portuguese whites and reds. For dessert there are delicious Portuguese pastries. Try the pastel de nata, a flaky pastry stuffed with creamy custard. Rua Inhangá 30, Copacabana. 021/2236-1222. Main courses R$46–R$85 for 2. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–11pm. Metrô: Cardeal Arcoverde.
Arab
MIDDLE EASTERN.
Arab has a terrific waterfront patio (on Copa beach) and delicious Middle Eastern cuisine. For lunch the kitchen puts on an excellent kilo buffet (R$42/kilo), great for trying a variety of dishes. Offerings include tasty salads with chickpeas, lentils, grilled vegetables, and outstanding main dishes such as the roasted chicken with apricots, couscous with cod, grilled lamb kabobs, and piping hot, fresh pita breads. In the evenings, dishes are a la carte. Our favorites include the tray of mezzes (appetizer plates). Perfect for sharing, these plates come with enough munchies for three or four people and include hummus, baba ghanouj, savory pastries with ground beef or lamb, and other finger food. Desserts are dangerously rich and include sweet pastries made with sugar, rosewater, and almonds or pistachios. Av. Atlântica 1936, Copacabana. 021/2235-6698. www.restaurantearab.com.br. Main courses R$25–R$42. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 5pm–1am; Tues–Sun 8am–1am. Metrô: Cardeal Arcoverde.
Churrascaria Carretão
BRAZILIAN/STEAK.
For a churrascaria meal without breaking the bank, try Carretão. It’s an all-you-can-eat rodízio system: Meats are delivered to your table by a constant parade of waiters carrying a variety of cuts, and you can help yourself to a large buffet with a selection of 20 salads, sushi, and even grilled salmon or trout. Carretão also serves up a variety of pork, sausage, chicken, and turkey cuts. Children 4 and under eat free, those ages 5 to 9 pay only half price. Just keep them away from the fruit smoothies and desserts so eagerly pushed by the waiters; these aren’t included in the price, and jack up the bill pretty quickly. Rua Visconde de Pirajá 112, Ipanema. 021/2267-3965. Reservations accepted. R$35 all-you-can-eat, drinks and desserts extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Bus: 404 or 474 (corner Teixeira de Melo). Also in Copacabana: Rua Ronald de Carvalho 55, 021/2543-2666, and Rua Siqueira Campos 23, 021/2236-3435.
Shirley
SPANISH.
This hole-in-the-wall Spanish seafood restaurant has been packing them in for years. The restaurant is small, the tables close together, and the older waiters quaint, though not exactly perky, and the food is definitely worth the trip. When you finally nab a spot, order the couvert while perusing the menu; you get a plate of chunky sardines in tomato sauce, olives, and lots of pickled veggies. It’s better than many of the appetizers, and goes nicely with the house sangria. The menu offers a range of fish and seafood dishes, including typically Spanish items such as paella and zarzuela, a souplike stew. The prawn dishes are made with the fresh, monster-size prawns you see in the display window.
Fish lovers have the option of sole, sea bass, and snapper, which can be grilled, sautéed, broiled, or breaded. Plates come with generous side dishes of vegetables, potatoes, or rice and will easily feed two. Rua Gustavo Sampaio 620, Leme. 021/2275-1398. Main courses R$26–R$56; most are for 2 people. No credit cards. Daily 11am–midnight. Bus: 472.
Inexpensive
The Bakers
ANDWICHES/DESSERT.
The perfect combination of American-style sandwiches and Brazilian sweets and desserts. The sandwich menu includes breads not often seen in Rio, including ciabatta, eight-grain, whole wheat, and challah. The Al Pacino sandwich comes with Parma ham, mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, and a Mediterranean dressing. The Romeo and Juliet is a delicious combination of chicken breast, herb-flavored catupiry cheese, greens, and an apricot dressing. Once you’ve chewed through one of those, you can choose from a mouthwatering selection of cakes and pies, including the Ecstasy, a chocolate cake with fresh strawberries, whipped cream, and chocolate sauce, or for something more nutty, the chocolate mousse cake with cashews. The bakery also serves up a mean cappuccino. Rua Santa Clara 86, Copacabana. 021/3209-1212. www.thebakers.com.br. Everything under R$15. No credit cards. Daily 9am–8pm. Bus: 415.
Cafeina
CAFE/BREAKFAST.
There’s excellent coffee and cappuccino here, homemade specialty breads, and a good selection of sandwiches, but what really draws folks in is the breakfast menu: There are waffles with honey or whipped cream or Nutella, delicious eggs and omelets, or the classic breakfast for two—fresh OJ, a basket of breads with jam and honey and cheese, cold cuts, cakes, papayas, yogurt with granola, and of course coffee (R$47 for two). Rua Barata Ribeiro 507, Copacabana. 021/2547-4390. www.cafeina.biz. Main courses R$8–R$30. MC, V. Daily 8am–11pm. Metrô: Cardeal Arcoverde. Plus 4 other locations in Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon.
IPANEMA
Very Expensive
ITALIAN.
Margutta offers Mediterranean cuisine with an emphasis on seafood. The room is cozy and intimately lit. Owner Paolo Neroni often greets guests at the door and provides a word or two of recommendation. We started off with deliciously sautéed mushrooms, followed by the farfalle al gamberi e zafferano, bow-tie pasta with prawns in creamy saffron. For our entree we tried the signature dish, the Pesce alla Neroni (oven-roasted fish with fine herbs and a side of roasted potatoes and tomatoes). What impresses is the simplicity of the dishes. No convoluted sauces, long lists of ingredients, or fancy fusion. Most dishes seem to consist of three or four ingredients and just the right amount of herbs to balance the flavors. The result is a simple and elegant cuisine that brings out the best of all ingredients. Av. Henrique Dumont 62, Ipanema. 021/2259-3718. www.margutta.com.br. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$35–R$75. AE, DC, MC. Mon–Fri 6pm–1am; Sat and holidays noon–1am; Sun noon–midnight. Bus: 415.
Expensive
ITALIAN.
The Rio branch of a highly successful São Paulo restaurant brings the same sophisticated styling to the room and the same meticulous preparation to the meals. Signature dishes include rack of lamb with a black truffle and foie gras sauce, or osso buco with mushrooms. Pastas include gnocchi with squid, and a ravioli of veal with a mushroom sauce. The room is open but warm, with a hardwood floor and exposed brick walls. Wines lean to the higher end—avoid the overpriced token Brazilian vintages, and seek out the midpriced Chilean and Argentine vintages. Rua Anibal de Mendonça 157, Ipanema. 021/2239-8158. www.fasano.com.br. Main courses R$35–R$65. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–4pm and 7pm–1am; Sat noon–2am; Sun noon–midnight. Bus: 415.
Le Vin Bistro
FRENCH.
This place offers French bistro cuisine, though perhaps a tad higher end than is normal in Paris. For starters, try the half-dozen oysters, the mouilles et frites, or the obligatory escargots, served dripping in garlic and adorned with parsley. For a main course, try the lamb in a red-wine reduction, or steak in béarnaise sauce, with baked potatoes. The wine list has an extensive selection by the glass, a good way to mix and match reds and whites to every dish. For dessert, try the traditional profiterole or petit gâteau. Et voilà. Rua Barão de Torre 490, Ipanema. 021/3502-1002. www.levin.com.br. Main courses R$35–R$55. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–11pm. Bus: 415.
Zazá Bistrô Tropical
BRAZILIAN/FUSION.
Zazá is Rio’s funkiest eatery, serving up a creative menu of South American cuisine fused with Oriental flavors. Everything about Zazá is fun, from the playful and eclectic decorations to the unique and excellent dishes. Diners can choose from a table on the terrace or in the dining room. The more adventurous can ask for a spot upstairs where everyone sits on the floor, surrounded by candlelight, leaning back on silk-covered pillows. It feels like a palace from the Arabian Nights. The menu offers plenty of choices.
Appetizers include a deliciously grilled squid salad served on a bed of greens with an orange vinaigrette, or an order of mini-acarajés (deep-fried dumplings made of mashed beans and spicy shrimp) served with tomato chutney instead of the usual hot-pepper sauce. Main courses also mix up the flavors. Try the namorado fish filet served with a purée of banana and palm heart, or a prawn ravioli served with grilled salmon in a saffron sauce. For vegetarians there is always an intriguing daily special. Rua Joana Angelica 40, Ipanema. 021/2247-9101. www.zazabistro.com.br. Main courses R$28–R$45. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7:30pm–1am; Fri–Sat 7:30pm–1:30am. Bus: 415.
Moderate
BRAZILIAN.
There may be restaurants with better feijoada in town—there are certainly better-decorated ones—but what they can’t offer you is feijoada any old day of the week. (Brazilian tradition dictates that the full-on feijoada meal is only served on Sat.) That’s where the Casa da Feijoada comes to the rescue. Get off to a good start with the caldo de feijão (bean soup), washed down with a batida de limão (lime cocktail) to line your stomach, as the Brazilians would say. Next bring on the actual bean stew, served in a clay pot with whatever meat you’ve a hankering for, be it sausage, bacon, carne seca (dried meat), pork loin, pig’s snout, and other more obscure cuts.
Side dishes include white rice, stir-fried cabbage, farofa (roasted manioc flour), and orange slices. To spice it up, ask for pimenta, and they will bring you oil-soaked malagueta peppers to drizzle on the beans. Have another lime cocktail standing by in case you underestimate the heat. Rua Prudente de Moraes 10, Ipanema. 021/2523-4994. www.cozinhatipica.com.br. R$25–R$42 main courses; feijoada meal R$55 per person, including appetizers, dessert, and drinks. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–11pm. Metrô: General Osorio.
Delirio Tropical
BRAZILIAN.
Stop here for a lighter and healthier snack. The menu includes delicious fresh salads such as the caprese (a layered tower of sliced tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella), salpição (shredded chicken with carrots and corn), pasta salads, and at least six other salads. You can put together a meal with a selection of salads alone, or you can add some grilled meat, or make a choice from the daily hot dish specials, often stuffed cannelloni or roast beef. The sandwich bar serves made-to-order sandwiches, with your choice of bread, filling, and salad. The service is cafeteria-style; you choose your dishes, load up your tray, and find a seat. Perfect brunch spot! Rua Garcia d’Avila 48, Ipanema. 021/3624-8164. www.delirio.com.br. Main courses R$14–R$32. AE, MC, V. Daily 9am–9pm. Bus: 415.
LEBLON
Very Expensive
Bar d’Hotel
CONTEMPORARY.
On the first floor of the Marina Hotel in Ipanema, this hip eatery overlooks the most famous beach in the world yet doesn’t even try to cash in on the view. Artists, actors, soccer players, designers, and others too cool to look at the ocean compete for each other’s attention, all the while trying not to look like they’re looking. Fortunately, the food is also great—the creations of chef Felipe Bronze—so we mere mortals can remain happily oblivious and just enjoy. Appetizers include mini lamb burgers with foie gras. For mains there’s a rich stew of ginger-scented prawns with jasmine rice, or filet mignon with a crust of caramelized macadamia nuts. The wine list is extensive; the drinks list is almost as long and far more creative. The restaurant is also a great place to just have a drink. Av. Delfim Moreira 696, 2nd floor (inside the Marina All Suites Hotel, p. 75), Leblon. 021/2540-4990. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$24–R$48. MC, V. Daily noon–2am. Bus: 415.
Expensive
Giuseppe Grill
STEAK.
With outstanding steak, an affordably priced wine list, and excellent and attentive service, what’s not to recommend? The house specialty is beef. You can choose from grilled beef or slowly roasted beef on a charcoal grill. Both options include numerous cuts—prime rib, Argentine chorizo steak, filet mignon, and rump steak as well as beef ribs, pork, and chicken. Each main course comes with a side dish; you can choose from salads, rice, and potatoes served fried, roasted, baked, or sautéed. In addition, the restaurant also serves up outstanding fresh seafood. There’s shrimp and namorado and catch of the day—ask for the waiter’s recommendation.
We went with the octopus, grilled to perfection and served tossed with arugula as a warm salad. Best of all, a steak dinner for two with appetizers, a bottle of Argentine Malbec, and coffee barely cracked the US$100 mark. Av. Bartolomeu Mitre 370, Leblon. 021/2249-3055. www.bestfork.com.br. Main courses R$36–R$65. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs noon–4pm and 7pm–midnight; Fri–Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–11pm. Bus: 415.
Mok Sakebar
JAPANESE.
To do this restaurant justice would require three reviews. First there is the sushi bar, run by talented chef Takashi Kawamura. His creations alone are worth the trip. Try the tuna marinated in green apple wasabi or the dragon roll with eel and shiitake mushrooms. Then there is the sake bar with an amazing selection of sake, including gold-flecked, bubbly, lime-flavored or 30-year-old vintage sakes. No idea what to order? Try the sake sampler (three small shot glasses) and the knowledgeable staff will be happy to help get you drunk. They also mix up some mean cocktails, like a banana or ginger-mandarin caipirinha or spicy Lotus Mary with wasabi, basil, and lime. As pièce de résistance, there is the restaurant itself and the main courses created by French chef Pierre Landry, such as tender grilled duck breast or spicy seared tuna with avocado tempura.
The perfect three-part harmony. Rua Dias Ferreira 78, Leblon. 021/2512-6526. www.moksushi.com.br. Main courses R$42–R$70. AE, V. Mon 7pm–1am; Tues–Thurs noon–3:30pm and 7pm–1am; Sat noon–1:30am; Sun 1–11pm. Bus: 415.
Sawasdee
THAI
Normally it’s Rio restaurants that branch out, but in this case Buzios’s best Thai restaurant made the trek in to the big city to set up shop in Leblon. The menu includes the tried and tested bestsellers, focusing on fresh, top-quality ingredients. Start off with the spicy chicken satay with peanut sauce or salmon fish cakes with a tangy dipping sauce. For main courses, we highly recommend bringing friends, ordering a variety of dishes, and sharing. Try at least one of the salads, like the mango salad with shrimp, a noodle dish (the pad Thai is outstanding), and perhaps a traditional green or red curry.
The kitchen also serves a large variety of vegetarian dishes and prepares several child-friendly versions of Thai classics. Rua Dias Ferreira 771, Leblon. 021/2511-0057. www.sawasdee.com.br. Main courses R$45–R$68. AE, MC, V. Tues–Thurs noon–midnight; Fri–Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–11pm. Bus: 415.
Moderate
Garcia & Rodrigues
BISTRO.
G&R features a deli, bakery, cafe, bistro, and wine bar. The cafe serves up an excellent breakfast, a great selection of sandwiches, cheese plates, and some of the finest baked goods in town. By noon, the bistro also offers risottos, pasta, grilled steak, and seafood, including a wonderful grilled salmon in orange saffron sauce. You can also put a great spread together by ordering various deli appetizers such as the carpaccio, the bruschetta with brie, honey, and chutney, and a cold-cut or pâté plate, served with a basket of freshly baked bread. Luckily the wine cellar (or rather attic) remains; the maitre d’ will happily help you choose an appropriate bottle. Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 1251, Leblon. 021/3206-4100. www.garciaerodrigues.com.br. Main courses R$24– R$52. AE, DC, MC, V. Cafe and bakery daily 8am–midnight. Bistro Mon–Thurs noon–12:30am. Bus: 415.
Inexpensive
KURT
DESSERT.
So what if Leblon has a higher than average number of dessert shops? This is one we couldn’t leave out. German pastry maker Kurt passed away a few years ago but his legacy (and treats) live on in the hands of his grandsons (who obviously inherited the sweet gene; they run the pastry shop the Bakers, p. 94). This tiny shop in Leblon remains one of the best places in town to go for an apfel strude, pecan pie, or apricot cake. A famous Kurt creation is the “bee sting” (picada de abelha), a chocolate cake, the recipe of which is a closely guarded family secret. Rua General Urquiza 117 (corner of Rua Ataulfo de Paiva), Leblon. 021/2294-0599. www.confeitaria kurt.com.br. Everything under R$15. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 8am–5pm. Bus: 415.
Mil Frutas
DESSERT.
One of the best ice-cream parlors in town, Mil Frutas offers a whole gamut of chocolate and fruit flavors, including some exotic ones from northern Brazil such as açai, cupuaçu, and caja. The staff is happy to give you a taste of several flavors before you decide on one, or two, or three. Rua Garcia d’Avila 134, Ipanema. 021/2521-1584. www.milfrutas.com.br. Everything under R$12. No credit cards. Daily 10:30am–1am. Bus: 415.
JARDIM BOTANICO/LAGOA
Very Expensive
CHINESE.
What do you do when you’re the richest man in Brazil but simply can’t find any decent Chinese food? Make it yourself! Billionaire Eike Batista hired top Chinese chef Mr. Lam, from famed New York’s Mr. Chow, and set him up in a swanky building overlooking Rio’s Lagoa. The result is a sexy, modern, loungelike restaurant with the best Chinese food in town, of course. Mr. Lam and his kitchen team from China (he quips, “You wouldn’t put any Chinese players on your Brazilian soccer team?”) serve up authentic cuisine. Start off with an order of dim sum, some spring rolls, or chicken satay.
Main courses include various prawn dishes (sweet-and-sour, black bean, or garlic), crispy fried noodles, and stir-fries with beef, chicken, or pork. The pièce de résistance is Mr. Lam’s signature Peking Duck: tender morsels of rich meat and crispy skin, served with pancakes, scallions, cucumber strips, and plum sauce (allow an hour for preparation). And although not a cheap meal, it will cost a lot less than a meal in New York (minus airfare). Rua Maria Angelica 21, Lagoa. 021/2286-6661. www.mrlam.com.br. Main courses R$45–R$99. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 7pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 7pm–1:30am; Sun 1–11:30pm. Bus: 170 or 571.
Olympe
FRENCH.
You can tell from the Web address that chef Claude Troisgros doesn’t exactly lack for ego, but then his restaurant and his recipes do regularly win awards for the best French cooking in the city and the country. His recipes combine a French approach with ingredients drawn from Brazil. Thus for appetizers there are Burgundy escargots with oven-roasted palm hearts. Mains include roast quail stuffed with farofa mixed with raisins, served with a sweet-and-sour jabuticaba sauce. Other chefs have tried this approach of course; Troisgros just does it better.
There are also more traditional French dishes: oven-roasted rabbit in red wine and chocolate sauce, coquilles St. Jacques with a caviar tapioca. The wine list is high end (nothing much under R$100) and drawn largely from France. Rua Custódio Serrão 62, Jardim Botânico. 021/2539-4542. www.claudetroisgros.com.br. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$55–R$95. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 7:30pm–12:30am; Fri noon–4pm and 7:30pm–12:30am. Bus: 572 (from Leblon or Copacabana) or 170 (from downtown).
Expensive
PIZZA.
One of Rio’s trendiest pizza restaurants, Capricciosa features beautiful people at the tables and a wood-burning oven at the back. This turns out great tasting pizzas and calzones, including the signature Capricciosa, with tomato, ham, artichoke, mushrooms, bacon, and egg. There’s also a delicious cold-cut and antipasto buffet, served with slices of homemade crusty bread, and a selection of pasta dishes. Those who prefer a more low-key and intimate setting can opt for the wine bar, to the left of the busy and bustling main dining room; the menus are the same. Note that a cheap meal this ain’t . . . these prices would buy you a juicy steak elsewhere, but that is the price you pay to hobnob with the hip. Rua Maria Angelica 37, Jardim Botânico. 021/2527-2656. www.capricciosa.com.br. Main courses R$28–R$42. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6pm–1am (later if it’s busy). Bus: 572 (from Leblon or Copacabana) or 170 (from downtown).
Lorenzo Bistrô
FRENCH/ITALIAN.
Cute little bistros are hard to find in Rio and this is a real gem, tucked away in a Jardim Botânico side street. Grab a table on the pleasant sidewalk patio or find a spot in the cozy upstairs dining room. The menu offers satisfying French and Italian “comfort food.” No fussy, precious haute cuisine, but a decent steak au poivre or a traditional steak with pommes frites (make sure your fellow diners get a portion or they will steal yours!). Other dishes include boeuf bourguignon, a hearty coq au vin, or more Italian-inspired options such as risottos, fish, and pasta. Red wine drinkers will be pleased to find a number of good (and affordable) South American reds and whites. Rua Visconde de Carandai 2, Jardim Botânico. 021/2294-7830. Main courses R$38–R$52. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs noon–11:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–12:30am; Sun 1–7:30pm. Bus: 170 or 571.
BRAZILIAN.
Maybe it was Sudbrack’s 7-year stint as chef at Brazil’s presidential palace that inspired her to bring good food to the masses. Although she has no qualms of charging Rio’s well-heeled diners R$160 to R$195 for a tasting menu, on Tuesday nights dinner will only set you back R$49 and Friday’s lunch goes for R$89. Sudbrack prides herself on cooking only with fresh, seasonal ingredients, giving typical Brazilian products a serious makeover. Some examples include the smoked okra with shrimp, dourado fish with green corn compote, or beet ravioli. Her small, modern bistro only seats 62 people. Once a month, Roberta Sudbrack also hosts a cooking class. See the website for details. Rua Lineu de Paula Machado 916, Jardim Botânico. 021/3874-0139. www.robertasudbrack.com.br. Reservations recommended. Main courses R$49–R$89. MC. Tues–Thurs 7:30pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 8:30pm–1am; Fri noon–3pm. Bus: 170 or 571.
Moderate
Bar Lagoa
BOTEQUIM.
In business since 1934 (when it was known as Bar Berlin), this Lagoa institution features a graceful Art Deco interior, cold clear chopp, and a menu drawn from Germany. Favorites include smoked pork with sauerkraut, or bratwurst with a heaping side of potatoes. Since 1987, the bar has been a designated heritage site. Have another chopp, sit back, and toast history. Av. Epitacio Pessoa 1674, Lagoa. 021/2523-1135. www.barlagoa.com.br. Reservations not accepted. Main courses R$10–R$25. MC, V. Daily 6pm–2am. Bus: 119.
KILO.
The mother of all kilo restaurants, Couve Flor is where it all started in the mid-’80s. Even now that the system has been widely adopted, Couve Flor still goes the extra mile. The menu offers an astonishing range of dishes, including elaborate and interesting options such as rabbit stew, fish moqueca, fresh pasta, at least 20 different kinds of salads, and grilled meats. The buffet even offers vegetarian choices such as stroganoff made with soybean “meat.” In the evenings Couve Flor also serves a selection of pizzas from a wood-burning oven, and the weekend lunch buffet is legendary with even more dishes and a choice of 15 desserts. The beauty of the kilo system is that you can have a bite of as many dishes as strike your fancy. Rua Pacheco Leão 724, Jardim Botânico. 021/2239-2191. www.couveflor.com.br. Price per kilo: R$34–R$42. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–5pm and 7–11pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun 11:30am–9pm. Bus: 572 (from Leblon or Copacabana) or 170 (from downtown).
Da Graça
CAFE.
Half the fun of going to Da Graça is in seeing the decor. It’s wonderfully kitsch, decorated top to bottom in colorful hippie junk. The menu consists of numerous small dishes that you can mix and match according to your appetite. The main dishes change daily, but can include a namorado fish with capers or salmon with herb crust. Remember, these are just small portions. You can add a side of rice, salad, a baked potato with curry, or a penne with lemon sauce. In the evenings there are a few more snack options such as sardines, samosas, or falafel. This is a great place to go for a drink or a snack, rather than a full meal. Rua Pacheco Leão 780, Jardim Botânico. 021/2249-5484. www.dagraca.com.br. Main courses R$15–R$32. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2am. Bus: 572 (from Leblon or Copacabana) or 170 (from downtown), get off at corner Rua Jardim Botânico with Pacheco Leão, 10-min. walk or take bus 406 from Flamengo.
Boxes
Don’t Shy Away from Street Food
When it comes to street vendors and food, you read a lot of strange things in travel guides. Never eat meat. Don’t touch fruit. Don’t eat anything at all. Only drinks. In cans. Insist on ice cubes made from bottled water. Sheesh! Rio is not Rangoon, nor the fetid fever swamps of 19th-century Benin. Yes, tap water is best avoided. It won’t kill you; it’s just so chlorine-saturated that it tastes like eau de swimming pool. Some of the best meals I’ve had in Brazil have been purchased from a street vendor. One night in Rio, on the Rua Ouvidor, we came across a man and his charcoal brazier, selling skewers of fresh-grilled prawns, lightly salted and doused with lemon. We bought two skewers, which lasted about 40 seconds . . . so we went back for four more . . . and then another four.
The moral? Eating from street vendors is fine, as long as you take precautions. Does the vendor look clean and healthy? Is the food stored in a cooler? Are Brazilians queuing up? If so, odds are the food’s good, and whatever supplies he has in his cooler haven’t been hanging around long enough to go bad.
Juice Magic
Rio’s juice bars are a bit like a magician’s hat. You peer into a hole-in-the-wall diner and think there’s nothing there, then the guy behind the counter conjures up any kind of fruit juice you care to name, all of it made fresh to order. The menu in these often standing-room-only spots will typically list over 25 different kinds of fruit juice. There are the standards such as passion fruit (maracujá), pineapple (abacaxi), mango (manga), or cashew fruit (caju); there’s carambola (star fruit), goiaba (guava), jaca (jack fruit), and açerola (red juice from the tiny açerola fruit). This is where things get fun. You can mix anything with anything else. Try laranja com açerola (orange juice with açerola, a very popular combination); maracujá com mango; or pineapple e guava, cashew e açerola. Some of these work, some don’t.
The magicians behind the counter are full of suggestions if you have any doubts. (Brazilians like to mix their fruit juice with milk.) You can also just throw caution to the wind and see what comes out of the hat. Excellent juice bars include Big Nectar, Teixeira de Melo 34A, Ipanema. (no phone; www.bignectar.com.br; 24 hr.). Five other locations are in Ipanema, Copacabana, and Catete. Or try Bibi Sucos, Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 591, Leblon. (021/2259-4298; www.bibisucos.com.br; daily 8am–2am), with 10 other locations in Rio. So eat, enjoy, and don’t have a cow. Or rather, do, if that’s what they’re selling.
Where to Find the Finest Feijoada
For the best feijoada in town, try one of the following restaurants (on a Sat, of course—lunch only). Confeitaria Colombo serves an outstanding feijoada in the loveliest dining room in town, Rua Gonçalves Dias 32, Centro (021/2221-0107; www.confeitariacolombo.com.br). Galani, on the 23rd floor of the plush Caesar Park Hotel, Av. Vieira Souto 460, Ipanema (021/2525-2525; www.caesarpark-rio.com), is famous for its Saturday buffet. Even fancier is the spread at the Sheraton’s Mirador, Avenida Niemeyer, São Conrado (021/2274-1122; www.sheraton-rio.com). After lunch you’ll welcome the 30-minute walk back to Leblon.
Rio’s Avenida Gourmet
We could probably fill half the Rio section with reviews of restaurants on the Rua Dias Ferreira. This windy street on the far edge of Leblon has become a one-stop shop for gourmands. Trendy vegetarians head straight for O Celeiro (021/2274-7843). You pay by the weight so help yourself to the delicious offerings and grab a spot on the large patio. To enjoy a stylish afternoon tea with all the trimmings, head over to Eliane Carvalho (021/2540-5438; closed Mon). For pasta there’s Quadrucci (021/2512-4551), which is open for lunch and dinner and has a great patio. For fine dining there are a number of options, mostly only open in the evenings. Zuka (021/3205-7154) offers creative seafood dishes such as crab in phyllo pastry or grilled tuna in a cashew-nut crust.
By Shawn Blore & Alexandra de Vries in the book 'Frommer's Brazil', Wiley Publising Inc, Hoboken, NJ, U.S.A., 2010, p. 83-100. Edited and illustated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.
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