BONE MARROW AS FOOD

Marrow is the soft, creamy, highly caloric substance found in the center of the bones. According to Waverley Root, in his reference work "Food", bone marrow is “the rather mucilaginous matter which fills bones and is considered a particular delicacy by cannibals.” Root was obviously not a fan, but cooked bone marrow has a mild taste and the consistency of soft butter; gourmands compare it to foie gras. The most popular marrow is veal or beef, from the animals’ leg bones. Don’t neglect what you find in lamb and pork shanks, hams, and game bones. Even if you don’t eat the marrow straight from the bone, remember to add those bones to your stockpot to enrich the final broth. Since man began hunting, marrow has been an important food source. It provides fat, iron, phosphorous, and vitamin A, with trace amounts of thiamin and niacin. For people living at subsistence levels or in marginal areas, it could mean the difference between life and death.
All mammals have marrow in their bones, as do birds—though to a lesser extent, because many bird bones are hollow, which helps them fly. During the Middle Ages marrow, like suet (the fat from around the kidneys), was used in place of butter as an ingredient in pastries, sweet puddings, and desserts. In Victorian times, marrow was a popular dish at English high teas and in men’s clubs, and it was often served, instead of pudding, at the end of the meal. Queen Victoria was a devotee, who it was said, ate marrow and toast every day. That may not have improved her figure, but it didn’t shorten her life. Although rich, beef marrow is easily digested. Because it is one of the richest foods there is, in the past it was the nutritional choice for anyone with a poor appetite or who needed building up. It was regarded as a health food, perfect for invalids and children. In one English recipe, the marrow is colored yellow with saffron and then whipped until it resembles butter. It was recommended for sickly children.
Fortunately, we don’t need the excuse of feeling undernourished to eat marrow; we can eat it because we like it. However, because many of us pay attention to the amount of saturated fat in our diets, marrow is usually a special treat. Knowing where your meat comes from, and how it has been raised, is especially important when it concerns bone marrow. Spinal marrow is found in the bones of chops and ribs, the neck, and tail. The safest bone marrow is that from the leg bones, because it has had no contact with brain tissues.

Barley Marrow Pudding 

This recipe is based on a medieval recipe recorded by Dorothy Hartley in her book "Food in England". It is really a rice pudding made with barley, because at the time the recipe was written, that was the readily available grain. The barley is cooked in milk, then enriched with bone marrow. The dish is highly nutritious, and according to Chinese medicine, the combination of barley and bone marrow is an excellent tonic for the body. If you need a pick-me-up, this is the dish for you. The marrow must be soaked ahead of time in salted water, changed frequently to remove any traces of blood. It must be also very cold so you can finely dice it. 4 cups (1 l) milk 1 cup (200 g) pearl barley, rinsed well ½ cup (100 g) sugar ½ cup (70 g) currants Pinch of kosher salt 3 tablespoons (30 g) finely diced bone marrow Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (essence)
1. Pour the milk into a medium saucepan and add the barley, sugar, currants, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer very gently, stirring from time to time, for 15 minutes. 2. Uncover the saucepan and continue to simmer very gently for another 15 minutes, or until the barley is just tender.
3. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the marrow, lemon zest, and vanilla. Cover the pan and let it stand until barley has completely absorbed the milk. Serve warm or cold.

Marrow Pudding 
This recipe is adapted from one in Florence White’s "Good Things in England". It is a type of bread and butter pudding, the food of my childhood. However, instead of the buttered bread slices my mother used, it is made with bread crumbs that are enriched with marrow. Good-quality fresh bread crumbs, preferably from an egg bread or brioche, are essential for this recipe. Slice the bread and trim off the crusts, place in a food processor, and process to coarse crumbs. Be sure to soak the marrow in advance to remove any traces of blood. 8 ounces (225 g) fresh white bread crumbs (about 3 cups) 2 cups (500 ml) whole milk 3 ounces (90 g) bone marrow, chopped (about ½ cup) ½ cup (80 g) raisins 2 large eggs ⅓ cup (65 g) granulated sugar ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ⅓ packed cup (70 g) brown sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking dish. Place the bread crumbs in a bowl.
Pour the milk into a saucepan and bring to a boil, then pour over the crumbs. Leave the crumbs to soak for 10 minutes.
2. Stir the marrow and raisins into the bread crumbs. Whisk the eggs with the granulated sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a bowl. Add to the bread crumbs and mix well. Pour this mixture into the baking
3. Place the baking dish in a larger pan and add enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 45 minutes, or until just firm in the center.
4. Preheat the broiler to high. Sprinkle the top of the pudding with the brown sugar and broil until the sugar melts. Let cool slightly, and serve.

Excerpts from the book "Bones Recipes, History, and Lore" by Jennifer McLagan,  Harper-Collins,2005. Compiled, adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.