The sophisticated cocktail returns—again. Here’s how to toast the moment.
With its seemingly infinite variations—the timeless two-to-one gin-to-vermouth ratio, the James Bond–approved shaken method, the sickly sweet dessert riffs of yore—few cocktails are as contested as the martini.Most of today’s bartenders would agree it’s best when balanced, frosty and invigorating with a welcome bite, no matter which ingredients mingle. And today the martini is experiencing its best rebirth yet at bars across the country.
Last fall, Anvil Bar & Refuge in Houston added a “drink more martinis”–inspired section to its cocktail menu. Ten different takes on the tipple were presented, including Mr. Hoshi’s dry gin martini, an ode to a style the bar team had enjoyed in Tokyo in which the ice is seasoned with dry vermouth that is then served alongside the finished cocktail.
“It’s probably the most personal drink ordered in a bar. Anyone who drinks martinis with any regularity likely has a specific preference on how they should be made,” says Anvil general manager Terry Williams. “Gin versus vodka. How much vermouth? Shaken versus stirred. Olive or twist? Dirty? Those types of attachments present very delicate interactions between bartender and guest.”
Many drinkers will be pleased to hear that scoffing at vodka martinis as the bartending elite once did is no longer in fashion. The spirit is just as revered as gin and stars in such cocktails as the Dirty Program at Noble Experiment in San Diego. Bartender Adele Stratton describes it as a “refined yet ballsy spin on the dirty martini,” served in a copper coupe. House-made brine with a hint of serrano pepper is brought together with Absolut Elyx vodka and fino sherry. Try getting all cocktail snobby about that.
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With more commercial and artisanal brands on the market,which should you reach for when mixing martinis at home? It depends on your taste and budget. If it’s gin you’re after, Nick Detrich,owner of Cane & Table in New Orleans, recommends the combo of Brooklyn gin and Yzaguirre dry vermouth. “With the amount of fresh citrus in the gin, it makes for a refreshing drink that’s still well textured,” he says.When it comes to vodka, Jim Kearns, partner at Slowly Shirley in New York, likes to pair it with a split of Dolin blanc and dry vermouths. “You get the best of both worlds,” Kearns says. “Blanc vermouth plays uniquely well with vodka. Aylesbury Duck vodka is the best on the market, as well as a fantastic value for the quality.” For supermarket shoppers, Tanqueray gin holds up well to more vermouth. And Stolichnaya, a
Roger Moore Bond favorite, is the equally reliable counterpart for vodka lovers.
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Are you fuzzy on the key terminology associated with this libation? With our handy guide, be confused no more.
Dirty: A savory rendition of the martini thanks to the addition of olive brine. If you really love olives, ask for it “filthy.”
Dry:The higher the ratio of vermouth to your spirit of choice, the “wetter” the martini. If you want the gin or vodka to shine, keep the vermouth volume low by ordering your drink “dry.”
Gibson: A martini that’s invitingly garnished with a pickled onion, which adds a tangy sweetness to the drink.
Perfect: If you prefer your martini with equal parts dry and sweet vermouths, request it “perfect.”
Twist: To release aromatic oils into your martini, a lemon peel—or, far less frequently, an orange or a lime peel—is twisted across the top just after straining.
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS COCKTAIL
SUPER OLD SCHOOL
In the days before the modern martini, there was the martinez, a late–19th century cocktail starring slightly sweet Old Tom gin.
OLD SCHOOL
Just after World War II, the presence of vermouth became less desirable in a martini, paving the way for a decidedly drier palate.
THE DARK AGES
In the 1980s and 1990s the name referred to a general style of drink that included the New York–born cosmopolitan and L.A.’s awful appletini.
THE RECLAMATION
At New York’s Rainbow Room in the 1990s, bartender Dale DeGroff started to resurrect the classics with perfect technique.
THE REVIVAL
Throughout the 2000s, subtle vermouth-accented creations began appearing in serious cocktail dens across the country.
THE GOLDEN AGE
Today’s sought-after martinis are successfully laced with everything from raw white honey syrup to star anise and other exotic ingredients.
Written by Alia Akkam in "Playboy", USA, March/April 2017, vol. 64, issue 2, excerpts pp. 32-34. Digitized, adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.
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