CREATING A CHINESE PANTRY

The first day of shopping is complete, though there will be others as our lessons progress. As I have led my class from shop to store to market to maker through Chinatown’s main streets and twisting alleys, I have repeatedly impressed on them the need to exercise care as they shop. I have demonstrated that food labels on Chinese products can be confounding adventures. Although it is true that more and more products from the vast Chinese table have become familiar, and that many foods once deemed exotic and unapproachable are now commonplace, there has also been a proliferation of brands and exercises in fanciful packaging. Which soy? Which sesame oil? Why? Which rice, Texas or Thai jasmine? Why? The inventories often seem endless. However, I test them all, and when I find a particular product to be superior, to be closest to the taste of tradition, I recommend it by name.

Having said that, I still strongly advise a careful reading of labels. Are these dried strands considered noodles or sticks or threads? Are these wrappers meant for spring rolls, for wontons, for American-inspired egg rolls, or for enclosing flavored raw vegetables in the Vietnamese manner? The manufacturers of prepared Chinese foodstuffs are an imaginative lot, so I cannot overstate the need to read labels with attention to every detail on them. I also suggest that when you are shopping for a particular food, you carry along a photocopy of the Chinese calligraphy for that food. I am careful in my classes, careful in my writings, to include the Chinese characters for any food products—canned, bottled, jarred, or fresh—that you will need. Show the shopkeeper the calligraphy. Point and say you want that, only that, and you will be given exactly what you need.

Almost invariably, the product names, ingredients, and brand names on food packages and tins are in English and occasionally in roman-ized Cantonese. This is a natural circumstance because nearly all of the Chinese who migrated to the United States and Canada, Britain and Western Europe, even to Latin America and the Caribbean in the past—and even today—were from Guangdong and other parts of southern China. They carried their foods with them, and when they settled in their new homes, they made certain their foods continued to follow them.

By necessity, we have come to identify Chinese products by the English and romanized Cantonese spellings on their packaging. Indeed, it is rare to find packages labeled with pinyin spelling, the official system of romanizing Mandarin, China’s national language.

I have also taken particular care to describe the provenance of products—the province, region, city, or ethnic group. Hong Kong is a good example. Since 1997, it has been a unique place in China, with its own governor and elected governing body, and it will remain so until 2047. Many foods are prepared and packaged in Hong Kong, and when I am describing a food that originated there, I note Hong Kong as the source.

Before going on, let me repeat again how important it is to secure the products I describe if you hope to meet with success in the kitchen. Proper buying will help to make proper recipes. These, then, are the foods we have shopped for so far, the first steps in creating a Chinese food pantry:

BAMBOO SHOOTS. These pale yellow spears are the young beginnings of bamboo trees. In the past, fresh bamboo shoots were unavailable outside of Asia. Nowadays they are sold in many Chinese groceries, though they are often tough and fibrous and must be boiled for use. Imported, already cooked, canned bamboo shoots are quite good, with those labeled “winter bamboo shoots” or “bamboo shoots, tips” the most tender. I prefer the ones in large chunks, so they can be cut as desired. In some shops, canned shoots are sold loose by weight. These shoots and the shoots in cans you open at home will keep in water to cover in a closed container in the refrigerator for 10 days to 2 weeks, if you change the water daily.

BEAN CURD, FRESH. This is the most common form of bean curd and is typically sold in 2½- to 3-inch square cakes, in packages and sometimes loose. The slightly firm, custardlike cakes, known as doufu, are made from ground soybeans cooked in the liquid, or “milk,” they exude. Buying individual cakes is preferred over purchasing packages that contain several cakes or a single large block. Bean curd has little taste of its own. Its versatility lies in its ability to absorb the tastes of the foods with which it is cooked. Store it in water to cover in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days, changing the water daily. Japanese brands, sold as “tofu,” are packaged in large sizes, up to 16-ounce cakes, and are sold in three distinct textures: soft or silken, firm or medium-firm, and extra-firm. Medium-firm is closest to the Chinese variety, and I favor it. Chinese bean curd is occasionally labeled “tofu” as well, or as daufu, the romanized Cantonese. Bean curd factories also sell a bean curd custard. It has the texture of a classic egg custard and must be eaten fresh. The Chinese eat it with sugar syrup as a snack or atop a mound of rice with a drizzle of soy sauce.

BEAN CURD, RED WET PRESERVED. These are cubes of reddish bean curd, fermented with salt, wine, and red rice. They are packed in jars or crocks and are labeled either “wet bean curd” or “red wet bean curd.” The cakes, which are not spicy despite their fiery color, are used as an ingredient in braising and barbecuing recipes for their taste—which is intense and assertive with salt and wine—and for their color. Once a container is opened, any unused cakes must be refrigerated. They will keep in their closed crock or jar for at least 6 months.

BEAN CURD JUICE. A relatively new ingredi-ent, this bottled “juice” is a boon to Chinese cooking. It is a mixture of fermented red wet bean curd liquid, rice wine, red rice, salt, and sugar—ingredients traditionally used separately to flavor and color foods—and is from the same fertile part of east-central China below Shanghai that produces Shaoxing wines. Once opened, it should be refrigerated, where it will keep indefinitely.

BEAN SAUCE. A Cantonese staple, this thick puree is made from the soybeans that remain after soy sauce is made. The fermented beans are mixed with wheat flour, salt, and sugar, resulting in sauce that also contains bits of beans. The sauce comes in jars, labeled either “bean sauce” or “ground bean sauce,” which means the beans have been mashed. This latter sauce also tends to be saltier. I prefer the former. Jars labeled “yellow bean sauce” or “brown bean sauce” hold the same beans made into the same sauce. Once opened, the sauce will keep for up to 6 months in the refrigerator.

BEAN SPROUTS. There are two varieties. The more common, mung bean sprouts, are white and plump and have a decided crunch. The second, soy bean sprouts, are also white, but they are longer and have a yellow soy bean at the tip. Both types are sold fresh by weight in Chinese markets and are widely available. They are stored the same, too, in the refrigerator in plastic bags punched with holes. They will keep for no more than 2 days, after which they will begin to turn brown and to soften.

BEAN THREAD NOODLES. These needle-like threads, also called vermicelli bean threads, cellophane noodles, or simply bean threads, are made by moistening, mashing, and draining mung beans and then forming them into thin, white strands. They come dried, in 1-pound packages, divided into bundles usually weighing 2 ounces each. Avoid other large packages of irregularly shaped sheets and long, thin, rough sticks made from soybean, both of them beige and mistakenly labeled “bean thread”.

BLACK BEANS, FERMENTED. These fragrant black beans, preserved in salt, usually come packed in cardboard containers or plastic sacks. Although typically labeled “fermented,” some cardboard packages are labeled “preserved beans,” or, inexplicably, “dried black beans,” which they are not. Look for beans lightly flavored with ginger and orange peel, which I prefer. Always rinse off the salt from the beans before using. They will keep in a tightly sealed container in a cool cupboard for up to 3 months.

BOK CHOY. The best-known Chinese vegetable, bok choy, literally “white vegetable” because of its white bulbous stalk, is grown throughout China and other parts of Asia. Its crispness and inherent sweetness make it particularly versatile. Although often referred to as Chinese cabbage, the vegetable’s deep green leaves above a white stalk bear no resemblance to a cabbage. Bok choy comes in various sizes, from as long as 15 to 18 inches to as small as 2 to 3 inches. There are even bok choy sprouts. They are all the same vegetable, and the size of the head dictates how it is used, whether as a primary ingredient or as a garnish. Bok choy will keep for 2 days in the vegetable drawer of a refrigerator. Kept longer, its leaves gradually turn yellow and its flavor diminishes, so use it at its freshest.

BOK CHOY, SHANGHAI. Generally smaller than bok choy, and with pronounced bulbous stalks, Shanghai bok choy is called the “greenish-white vegetable” by the Chinese. The description is apt, for its stalks are not as white as those of bok choy and its leaves are not as deep green. If you want Shanghai bok choy, simply ask for it by that name; the grocer will understand you. It also comes in different sizes, but its color makes it recognizable.

Shanghai bok choy is stored the same way you store regular bok choy and for the same amount of time.

BOXTHORN SEEDS. Also known as “wolf-berries,” these tiny, red, raisinlike dried fruits of the boxthorn shrub have a faint, mildly sweet flavor and are generally used for stocks and in soups. Because the Chinese believe these fruits are restorative and contribute to eye health, they are available not only in groceries, but also in herbal shops. The shrub itself is useful as well. Its leaves are added to stir-fries and soups or are scrambled with eggs, and its twigs are used to make soups or infusions that are believed beneficial to bone strength in the elderly.

CHILES. Small, slender fresh chiles, deep red and about VA inches long, were once imported exclu-sively from Thailand. Most still are, but others, grown elsewhere, including domestically, are now sold in Chinatown markets. Chiles from Thailand remain my preference, however, because they deliver a unique quality to dishes. Although they are quite hot, they impart a pleasant heat that lingers in the mouth. They are also dependable in terms of the numbers used to achieve the desired hotness. Store them in a container lightly covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Do not seal the container, or the chiles will deteriorate. For recipes that call for dried chiles, such as my Hot Pepper Oil, you can dry the fresh chiles, which I prefer, or you can purchase them already dried, but make sure they are dried Thai chiles. Whole dried chiles will keep in a tightly closed container in a cool, dark place for at least 6 months.

CHILI SAUCE. This bottled sauce is a mixture of vinegar, chiles, salt, and often cornstarch and artificial coloring. There are many brands, some of which are adequate. However, it is best to make your own.

CHINESE CHIVES. Also known as “garlic chives,” Chinese chives are more pungent and flatter and wider than Western chives, though they are the same deep green color. Yellow chives are the same vegetable, but they are deprived of the sun as they grow, which makes them a pale yellow. Although both green and yellow chives have an essential taste of garlic, the yellow is more delicate. Once yellow chives were an underground industry, literally, grown in Chinatown basements by newly arrived immigrants. Nowadays both green and yellow chives are widely available and are sold fresh by weight. Do not use the familiar Western chive in their place. Its taste differs, and your recipe will reflect that difference.

CHOI SUM. This is the most familiar spelling for this vegetable, though its first character is often spelled choy or tsoi when romanized into Cantonese. The leafy vegetables with thin stalks are all green, from their large outer leaves to their smaller inside leaves to their light green stalks. The stalks, after their hard ends are trimmed, are crisp and sweet. Choi sum, like other leafy vegetables, tends to lose its sweetness as it ages. Its leaves become yellow and it sprouts small yellow flowers, so eat it as fresh as possible. It will keep for no more than 2 days in the vegetable drawer of a refrigerator.

CINNAMON. Two kinds of cinnamon are avail-able in the markets, one the descendant of the original cinnamon bark from Sri Lanka knownas Ceylon cinnamon, and the second the so-called Chinese cinnamon from the bark of the cassia tree, though the two are related. At one time, vast cinnamon forests covered large areas of Hunan, but they no longer exist. The aromatic sticks of rolled bark, brown and hard, are one of the ingredients in five-spice powder and are used in long-cooked stews and soups. Stored in a tightly sealed container, the sticks will keep at room temperature for up to 6 months, but they will gradually lose their fragrance.

CLOUD EARS. When dried, these fungi, which grow on decaying branches, look like small, round chips and vary from brown to brown-black. When soaked in hot water, they soften, glisten, and resemble flower petals. At one time, they were used interchangeably with tree ear fungi, also known as wood ears, a black fungus that grows on wood as well. However, tree ears are larger and tougher than the small, tender cloud ears, so although either may be used in recipes, I prefer cloud ears for their softer, more delicate nature. Store cloud ears in a closed jar in a cool, dry place. They will keep indefinitely.

CORIANDER. This aromatic leaf is called fresh coriander to distinguish it from its seeds, the spice. It is also called Chinese parsley, though it is similar only in appearance to parsley, and cilantro in Southwestern and Mexican cookery. Fresh coriander, which is used as both a flavoring ingredient and a garnish, has an intense smell and imparts a distinctive taste. In the past, it was found only in Asian and Latin American groceries, but it is now widely available. Ideally, you should use it as soon as possible after purchase, so that its bouquet can be appreciated, but it may be refrigerated in a vegetable drawer for up to 1 week.

CURRY. As used in China, particularly in Hong Kong, Guangdong, and other parts of the south, this is a powder, originally introduced from India. There are, to be sure, many brands of curry powder, but based on my testing of many of them, I recommend Roland brand curry powder from Madras. Its ingredients are turmeric, coriander seed, cumin, chile, fennel seed, fenugreek, cassia, clove, curry leaf, garlic, and salt. Stored in a tightly sealed jar, the powder will keep at room temperature for up to 6 months, though it will gradually lose its fragrance.

DRIED SCALLOPS. These disk-shaped, dried sea scallops, known in Cantonese as gawn bui and in Mandarin as gan bei but romanized to conpoy, are quite special in China. The best are dried naturally in the sun and range from ¼ inch to 2 inches in diameter. The largest can command as much as one hundred dollars a pound in herbal shops and food markets. Dried scallops are quite hard and must be soaked in hot water or steamed until softened before using. Once they are soft, they are usually shredded and added to other preparations. Store dried scallops in a sealed plastic container in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

EIGHT-STAR ANISE. Also called simply “star anise,” these are the tiny, hard, eight-point star fruits of the Chinese anise tree, with a flavor more pronounced than that of aniseeds. They will keep in a tightly sealed jar at room temperature for up to 1 year, though they will gradually lose their intensity.

FIVE-SPICE POWDER. Known in China as five-fragrance powder,” this seasoning can be made from a mixture of any five of the following ingredients: star anise, fennel seed, cinnamon, clove, ginger, licorice, nutmeg, and Sichuan peppercorn. Different mixtures abound, though anise and cinnamon dominate. The pungent ground powder is used sparingly in dishes that call for strong flavors. If you have your own grinder, I suggest you concoct your own five-spice powder.

GINGER. This gnarled, knobby root—actually a rhizome—is often referred to as gingerroot. When selecting ginger, look for large, thick pieces with smooth outer skins because a wrinkled and rough skin indicates age. One of the most important foods in Chinese cooking, ginger imparts an intense, distinctive flavor and should be used sparingly. Its strength depends on how it is prepared, which is why I am careful to specify whether it should be peeled or unpeeled, lightly smashed or not, sliced, julienned, minced, or shredded. It will keep in a heavy, brown paper bag in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 weeks. Some Chinese markets stock yellowish ginger, imported from China. In addition to its distinctive color, its taste is hotter than the more familiar beige ginger. Young ginger, which is slightly pink and has thin, smooth skin and crisp flesh, is also available. It is often called “spring ginger,” a misnomer because it is available throughout the year. It is actually regular ginger that is harvested when young to ensure its characteristic crispness and mild flavor.

GINGER PICKLE. Usually made from young roots, thinly sliced, mixed with vinegar and sugar, and jarred, ginger pickle is available under many commercial brand names. Most of them are adequate, but you can make your own ginger pickle with relatively little effort and excellent results.

HOISIN SAUCE. This thick, chocolate-brown, sweetened sauce is made from cooked soybeans, garlic, sugar, and chiles. Some brands add a little vinegar to the mix, others thicken it with flour. Too often, this sauce—famous as an accompaniment to Peking duck—is called plum sauce, which it is not. Hoisin comes in jars and large cans. If jarred, it should be refrigerated once you have opened it. If bought in a can, transfer it to ajar after opening and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 3 months.

HOT BEAN SAUCE. This Sichuan condiment of chiles, salt, cooked soybeans, and sesame oil is used as a flavoring for stir-fried dishes and as sauce ingredient. In the past, stores carried a Taiwanese product that mixed mashed fava beans and ground chiles and called it “horse beans,” a label rarely seen these days. What you will see are jars labeled “hot bean sauce,” “hot bean paste,” or simply “bean sauce.” Some labeled “bean sauce” add the word “Sichuan” to show the area of production. All are essentially mixes of soybeans and chiles, but some add flour, some sugar, some sesame oil, some garlic. This is an instance where it is essential to shop with a photocopy of the Chinese characters for the sauce in hand. Nor should this spicy condiment be confused with sweet Cantonese bean sauce. Once opened, the sauce should be stored in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to 6 months.

HOT PEPPER OIL. Several brands of hot oil are on market shelves, but I have found many of them are based on inferior oils. Once again, I prefer that you make an ingredient yourself, this time a hot oil with a peanut oil base. As you will discover, it is not difficult, and there is a bonus: A byproduct of your effort will be a deposit of oil-soaked red pepper flakes for using in other recipes.

JICAMA. Widely raised in China and elsewhere in Asia, this sand-colored, bulbous root vegetable has sweet, crisp white flesh that can be eaten raw or cooked. Called sah gut by the Cantonese, it is a good substitute for water chestnuts. Uncut jicama will keep in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. Peeled and sliced jicama will keep in a closed plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.

MUNG BEAN STARCH. White dried mung beans, their green skins removed, are ground into a starch that, like all Chinese starches, is referred to equally as a powder and a flour. This is the starch that was in our kitchen when I was a child, and it is the starch I was most familiar with when cooking in China. What makes it particularly desirable is its capacity to impart a glistening finish to whatever food to which it is added. Only in recent years has mung bean starch become widely available in Chinese markets. I use it as I do cornstarch, to thicken sauces and to give them body, to marinate meats, and to coat foods before frying. Sauces made with cornstarch are typically thinner and have less body than those made with mung bean starch.

MUSHROOMS. The mushrooms used most often in China, and collectively called gu, are native black mushrooms. Almost never sold fresh in Chinese markets, they come dried in boxes and cellophane packs. They vary from black to dark gray to speckled gray and black, and their caps range from about ¾ inch to 3 inches in diameter. These mushrooms must always be soaked in hot water before use—usually for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the recipe—and their stems removed and discarded. The dried mushrooms will keep indefinitely in a tightly sealed container at room temperature or, if in a humid damp climate, in the refrigerator. Shiitake mushrooms, known as dong gu, have been eaten throughout China since the T’ang Dynasty. Other dried mushrooms include flower mushrooms, with deep, wide ridges in their caps. Although essentially the same species as black mushrooms, flower mushrooms are thicker, meatier, and more expensive and are so highly regarded that they are often given as gifts. Also popular are small straw mushrooms, which are native to southern China and Hunan; have an elongated, domed cap; and are most often sold canned. Once opened, straw mushrooms will keep in a closed container in the refrigerator for about 1 week. Finally, the so-called chicken leg mushrooms are bulbous and meaty and have almost no cap. They are raised in Canada with spores from China and are usually sold fresh. They lend themselves to cooking with other foods and are long-lived. Wrapped in paper towels and placed in a plastic bag, they will keep in the refrigerator for 10 days to 2 weeks.

OILS. Peanut oil is the preferred oil for Chinese cooking, not only because it contributes to a healthful diet, but also for the nutty flavor it imparts to food. However, since many people are allergic to peanut products, I can suggest canola, corn, or soybean oil equally as an alternative. Do not be tempted to use olive oil for Chinese cooking. Its aroma and consistency are incompatible with Chinese foods.

OYSTER SAUCE. This is a viscous liquid com- prising oyster extract, salt, and often caramel for color. It is made by boiling large amounts of fresh oysters to arrive at a thickened “soup,” to which the salt and caramel, and occasionally sugar and flour, are added. I have been told that at one time dried oysters were used in its preparation, but I have found no evidence of that method. Oyster sauce is a highly prized seasoning, virtually indispensable to the Cantonese cook, and used more and more by cooks throughout China. Its role is to enhance existing flavors and to impart a rich brown color. This sauce is also well regarded by Buddhists because the oyster (along with the clam and mussel) is permissible in their vegetarian diet. Once a bottle of oyster sauce is opened, it will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. Many brands are on the market, not only from mainland China and Hong Kong but also from domestic sources. I recommend Hop Sing Lung brand from Hong Kong.

PEPPER. All references to pepper refer to ground white pepper only. Black pepper came into use late in China, and only recently has it come to be used with any regularity, and then usually in Hong Kong and Shanghai.

PRESERVED EGGS. These processed duck eggs are most commonly referred to as thousand-year-old eggs, or pidan in Mandarin andpe¿ dan in Cantonese. To make them, raw eggs are usually covered with a paste of salt, tea leaves or an infusion of tea leaves, ground rice husks and whole husks, and a preservative—sodium carbonate (lye water)—and left to cure for fifty-eight days. The curing time is precise. Fewer days will result in weak preservation, and more days will yield hard eggs. When the eggs are ready, the shell will have turned a mottled gray, the white will have become a black-brown gelatin, and the yolk will be a deep, dull green. Preserved eggs were once shipped around the world in big, brown earthenware crocks. Nowadays they are packaged, usually six to the box, and labeled “preserved duck eggs.” Although produced throughout China, the eggs from Fujian Province are generally considered the best. They are eaten as a condiment, cold and sliced, and served accompanied by pickled ginger slices. They should not be confused with the salted duck eggs that are cured in a salt solution and eaten with congee.

PRESERVED MUSTARD. To make preserved mustard, usually labeled mui choi and called maίchaί in Mandarin, mustard plants are cooked, then preserved in salt and sugar, and finally dried. They are dull brown and pliable and come packed in plastic bags labeled “preserved mustard” or “salted mustard.” Salt crystals are often visible through the packages, but they do not affect the vegetable. Quite versatile, preserved mustard is used in stir-fries, in steamed dishes, and in soups. It should be stored in a sealed jar at room temperature and will keep for at least 6 months. The longer it is kept, the darker it becomes. Before using, open the leaves and carefully rinse away the salt.

RED DATES. These deep red fruits, members of the buckthorn family and also known as jujubes, are usually sold dried in 1-pound plastic sacks labeled either “red dates” or “dried dates.” They come both pitted and not—though I prefer the latter for their superior taste and fragrance—and are usually soaked in hot water for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the recipe, before using. They are steamed and used in stocks, steamed together with chicken, or added to clay pots, savory soups, or sweet soups of lotus seeds and red beans. Once the package is opened, transfer the dates to a covered jar and store them in a cool place, where they will keep for about 6 months. In recent times, fresh red dates have been turning up in Chinatown markets. They are oval, hard, and their exteriors are red to mottled yellow. Fresh red dates are used the same way as dried dates and can be eaten raw. They will keep in an open bowl for up to 5 days. Later, as they age, they redden and become dry and wrinkled. They will dry thoroughly in about 3 weeks. Once dried, store them as you would purchased dried dates.

SALTED TURNIP. Made by blanching, salting, and drying sliced white turnips, this preserved root vegetable is sold in plastic packages labeled “salted turnip.” They are also sold loose by weight.

A versatile preparation, it’s used as a pickle or condiment and as an ingredient in soups and stir-fries. Once the package has been opened, store the salted turnip in ajar in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

SAUSAGES. Uncooked sausages have a long history throughout China, appearing in the wall murals of excavated Han Dynasty tombs. In Cantonese they are called lop cheong, and in Mandarin lachang. They are traditionally made of coarsely cut pork, pork fat, and pork liver. But over the years, their makeup has varied. These days you will find sausages of pork and pork fat, of pork and pork liver, and of lean ground pork. Even chicken lop cheong are made, as are sausages of duck liver. In some shops, the sausages, in casings, are strung together in pairs and are sold loose by weight. Or they are sold, without strings, in 1-pound vacuum-sealed packages. Once imported from China, they are now also made elsewhere in Asia, in the United States, and in Canada, and the quality is generally good. They must be cooked before eating and are commonly steamed, stir-fried, diced and added to rice, or sliced and added to soup. They will keep in the refrigerator for about 1 month, and in the freezer for up to 2 months.

SESAME SEEDS. These small seeds are either black or white, roasted or raw. Black sesame seeds, both raw and roasted, are customarily used as a decoration or as an ingredient in the preparation of sweet pastry fillings or sweet soups. Roasted and raw white sesame seeds are generally used in dumpling fillings, as garnishes, or in the making of sweets. Sesame seeds are typically sold in plastic bags of 4 ounces to 1 pound and are occasionally sold loose. They can become rancid quickly if left at room temperature, so transfer them to a tightly capped container and store in the freezer for up to several months.

SESAME OIL. This highly aromatic oil made from toasted sesame seeds has a defined nutlike fragrance. I use it to flavor sauces and marinades or as a dressing. It easily burns if used in direct cooking. Because it is a heavy oil, it should never be used in stir-fries, despite what you may have seen or read. Once opened, sesame oil will keep, tightly closed, at room temperature for up to 4 months.

SESAME SEED PASTE. A mix of ground white sesame seeds and soybean oil, this fragrant paste, sold in jars, is smooth and has the consistency of peanut butter and a pronounced sesame taste. Sesame seed paste is used in the Middle Eastern kitchen as well, where it is known as “tahini.” I do not recommend using tahini, however, because it is too thin and its taste and fragrance are weak when compared to the Chinese product. After opening, store sesame seed paste in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to 6 months.

SHRIMP. These days, shrimp can be found live in Chinatown markets. By all means, buy them if they are available, as they have a wonderful natural sweetness. Otherwise, shrimp come cooked or uncooked, both fresh and frozen. I recommend against using cooked shrimp. When buying raw shrimp, always look for gray ones. They have a more cohesive texture than pink ones, which fall apart, especially when used in fillings. (In fact, most Chinatown markets do not even carry pink shrimp because their Chinese customers will not buy them.) Shrimp are sold in boxes or packs, or they are displayed loose on ice. Some frozen uncooked shrimp are available split and deveined but with their shells intact. These are variously labeled “easy peel shell on” or “quick peel” or “shell on.” I find they can save you time, but again be sure you always buy gray ones. Shrimp are typically graded by size and by count per pound. The sizes are usually imaginatively labeled “medium,” “large,” “extra large,” or “colossal.” To ensure you purchase the correct size for the recipes, I have provided both the weight and the count per pound.

SICHUAN PEPPERCORNS. These staples of Sichuan Province are neither hot nor true peppercorns. They are reddish, mild, emit a faint aroma of nutmeg, and impart a faint tingling sensation to the tongue. Nor are they solid like peppercorns; rather, they are open and are sometimes called flower peppercorns. Store these spices as you would peppercorns. Some recipes call for ground Sichuan peppercorns, which cannot be purchased. You must grind them yourself using a spice grinder, a mortar and pestle, or by placing them in a bowl and smashing them with the end of the wooden handle of a cleaver. Stored in a cool, dry place in a covered jar, whole peppercorns will keep for up to 6 months and ground peppercorns will keep for up to 2 weeks.

SILK SQUASH. This unusual, deep green, zucchini-shaped gourd, which can range from 1 foot to 3 feet long, has pronounced ridges running along its length. Also known as Chinese okra or luffa squash, it is a sweet vegetable, pure white inside its green skin, soft, and excellent in soups. The squash will keep in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

SNOW CABBAGE. Similar to collard greens, this green, leafy vegetable is a favorite in Shanghai. It is called snow cabbage these days, but in earlier times it was called “red in snow,” because it was said to grow best, and was ideally harvested, with the first snowfall. It is never eaten uncooked. Most often, it is water-blanched and salted and then cut up for use in soups, with noodles, in stir-fries with meats, or in dumplings. Most famously, it is stir-fried with so-called hairy beans, which are immature (green) soybeans—a Shanghai classic usually served as an appetizer. Snow cabbage comes in small cans labeled “snow cabbage,” “Shanghai cabbage,” or “pickled cabbage.” It is even sometimes still labeled “red in snow,” so carry your Chinese calligraphy when shopping.

SNOW PEA SHOOTS. These tender tips of the vines on which snow peas grow are called dau miw in Cantonese or doumiao in Mandarin. Both translate as “begin to grow,” which perfectly describes these young shoots. They are quite sweet when cooked, and the Chinese have eaten them happily for centuries. They are best prepared as soon as possible after purchase, as they tend to toughen in storage.

SOYBEANS. Probably the richest source of protein in the world, soybeans contain twice the protein of the same weight of beef, carry more iron than the same weight of a beef liver, and are richer in digestible calcium than an equivalent amount of milk. They are also a highly versatile food, yielding not only the bean itself, but also soybean sprouts, soy sauce, bean curd in all of its forms, and soy milk. In China, the whole pods are boiled in salted water, and then the beans are removed and eaten as a snack or as a popular appetizer in Shanghai.

SUGARCANE SUGAR. These blocks of caramel-colored sugar come wrapped in plastic or loose in crocks and are sold by weight in Chinese and other Asian markets. They are made by boiling sugarcane extract, which is then recooked to thicken it, and then cooked a third time until it becomes very thick and viscous, honey yellow, and is free of impurities. It is spread in a layer and then cut into blocks.

TAPIOCA STARCH. Made from cassava root, this finely milled starch is used as the basis for dumpling doughs and sweets and for dusting or coating foods before cooking. Also known as tapioca flour, it is also used as a thickener for sauces, giving them a slightly gelatinous quality and giving the foods they are served with a desirable gloss. The starch will keep in a tightly covered container in a cool cupboard for up to 1 year.

TIANJIN BOK CHOY. This is a vegetable of many names. Often called Tianjin cabbage, Tientsin bok choy (the old spelling of its home city), or celery cabbage, it is also known familiarly as napa cabbage. There are two varieties of this very white, green-tinged vegetable—one with a long stalk, and the second rounder and heavier. The latter is the one most often called by its native city name; it is also the sweeter of the two, and my preference. At its best in late spring and summer, it should be kept in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no more than 3 or 4 days, after which small, black marks begin to appear on the stalks. I suggest eating it as soon as possible after purchase. Heads range from 3 to 8 pounds, and some grocers will cut the larger heads to accommodate shoppers.

TIGER LILY BUDS. Also called golden needles, these elongated, reddish-brown lily buds are dried, traditionally in the sun. The best buds are â soft and pliable; have a sweet aroma; and when cooked, particularly in soups, give off a faint sweetness. When dry and brittle, they are too old. Sold in packages, they will keep for at least 6 months in a tightly covered jar in a cool place.

WATER CHESTNUTS. These bulbous, purple-brown tubers, about l¼ inches in diameter and l inch thick, grow in the beds of still, muddy water. Despite their name and their appearance, they are not nuts. They are the roots of bulrushes. Peeling the tough brown skin is rather laborious, but once done, the rewards are great. The meat of the water chestnut—white, crisp, juicy, and sweet—is delicious, even when eaten raw. Canned water chestnuts are a barely adequate substitute. If you cannot find fresh water chestnuts, I suggest using jicama in their place. So versatile is the water chestnut that it is even transformed into a starch or flour for sweet cakes. As they age, they soften, lose their sweetness, and become quite starchy. Unpeeled, with the remnants of mud still on their skins, they will keep in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator for 7 to 10 days. Peeled, washed, and dried and put into a covered container, they will keep for 2 to 3 days.

WONTON WRAPPERS. Called wontonpei by the Cantonese, these thin, pliable wrappers, also called skins, made from wheat flour, come stacked 60 to 80 to the package (depending on thickness), and are found in the refrigerated section of markets. The wrappers, made with or without eggs, measure 3 by 3¾ inches, and come dusted with cornstarch. They can be used as is, trimmed into circles as wrappers for dumplings, or cut into strips and deep-fried as noodles. They are labeled “wonton skins,” or “wonton wrappers.” If you see the Chinese characters for the word “glass,” or bor lei pei in Cantonese, on the package, it means the skins are so thin you can see through them. The traditional skins of Hong Kong are also thin, and some packages are labeled “Hong Kong” to indicate they contain thin skins. Wrappers made without eggs are labeled “Shanghai wonton skins” or “Shanghai wonton wrappers.” The skins will keep in their packaging in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. Frozen, they will keep for up to 3 months. Usually you will use about half of a package at one time, so you may want to divide packages on purchase and freeze half for later use.

Written by Eillen Yin-Fei Lo in "Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking", Chronicle Books,San Francisco, USA, 2009, excerpts pp. 27-39. Digitized, adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.