INDIAN KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

 

Every layer of spice used in Indian cooking adds a different dimension to how the resulting curry will taste. And, despite the prevalence of heat in Indian cooking, it’s not always heat we aim for – flavour is just as important. In fact, the flavour comes from a combination of dried spices and fresh ingredients used together. The two complement one another to produce the balance – spicy, sour, sweet, hot and tangy. With this in mind, I’ve grouped ingredients into two broad categories: dried/storecupboard items and fresh. The lists are not comprehensive – they focus on the essentials that would be stocked in a true Indian kitchen.

Storecupboard and spice guide

The question I often get asked is, ‘What essential ingredients do I need to stock?’ Hopefully, the information that follows will answer that. All the ingredients listed feature in this book in their different forms and are explained in this guide, so that you can see at a glance which type are most commonly used.

When it comes to ground spices, my rule of thumb is always to add only as much of them as you would salt or pepper. Remember, spices are there to bring warmth, a little heat and a lot of depth and earthy flavour to your cooking, so use them sparingly. Remember, many of them, such as panch puran and chaat masala, are readily available online as well as in stores, and are really good quality, so it’s not worth going through all the hassle of making them yourself from scratch. Stored in airtight tins, they have a long shelf-life, and are indispensible alongside other standbys, such as canned tomatoes and coconut milk, and beans and pulses.

AJWAIN SEEDS

Also known as carom, these small seeds have a hot bitter taste with a thyme-like flavour. They work perfectly with Indian breads, fish and fried food. Ajwain is widely available in stores and online.

AMCHOOR (DRY MANGO POWDER)

Made from unripe mangoes, amchoor has a very tart distinctive flavour. It adds acidity and makes a good alternative to lemon juice without the moisture. I like to use it when cooking bhindi (okra) or even parathas. It is also one of the ingredients that bring out the tangy/sour flavour in chaat masala (see opposite).

ASAFOETIDA

Also known as hing, this pungent spice is extracted from the sap of a plant in the fennel family and has an onion-like flavour, which makes it useful in curries and a good substitute for garlic and onions. Sold as powder or granules, asafoetida keeps for up to a year. (The powdered form contains rice powder, which prevents it from forming lumps.) This spice is commonly used in curries containing lentils and pulses as it helps to make them more digestible.

BAY LEAF

These aromatic leaves are a common feature of Indian dishes and, although used dry, tend to keep their flavour intact. Indian bay leaves are quite different from the European variety, having an aroma and flavour like cinnamon when cooked, and if you can get hold of them they’re well worth trying. If not, use the European variety instead.

BLACK CARDAMOM

With its woody, smoky and intense aroma, black cardamom is one of my favourite spices when cooking with meats, and is also used to flavour curries, dal and tea. Use the pods whole or break them open and use the seeds inside. See also Green cardamom.

BLACK/BROWN MUSTARD SEEDS

Also known as rai, dried black/brown mustard seeds are commonly used for tempering, a cooking method in which whole spices are fried in hot oil. They appear in many Gujarati, Marathi, Bengali and south Indian dishes. The seeds are also often ground to a paste, which can be used in dals and curries. 

BLACK ONION SEEDS

These seeds, also called kalonji in India, and nigella in the UK, come from the fruit of a flower named ‘Nigella sativa’. They have a slightly bitter, peppery flavour and are a good addition to curries, pickles and breads. They are often used slightly toasted to release their flavour.

BLACK PEPPERCORNS

Black pepper is an integral spice in Indian food – especially in the south, where it is grown – and is used to add an additional dimension of heat to many dishes. Black peppers are berries that are picked from the vine and come from the same plant that produces white and green peppercorns. The flavour of coarsely crushed black peppercorn is just amazing, particularly in dishes such as Murgh Kali Mirch (see here), where I would recommend grinding a fresh batch. I have also used white peppercorns in some recipes – they lend a lovely aroma and flavour, but don’t have so much heat as their black counterparts.

CARAWAY SEEDS

Coming from a plant in the parsley family, caraway seeds have a slightly pungent, bitter aniseed flavour, so should be added sparingly. Used in pulaos, rice dishes and even for baking, they are also known to have digestive properties.

CASSIA BARK

This spice is very similar to cinnamon, but with a woodier, thicker bark, and has a really intense, well-rounded flavour. It is a very common feature of Indian cooking, where its earthy flavour is a perfect complement to meat curries and pulaos, as well as in tea and hot chocolate. In my recipes I specify cassia bark rather than cinnamon because I love its slightly sweeter, warmer flavour, but you can use cinnamon sticks instead.

CHAAT MASALA

This spice mix consists of amchoor (dry mango powder, see opposite), black pepper, black salt, cumin, dried mint, asafoetida and sugar. Use it generously on fruit, fresh salads, tandoori kebabs and street snacks to perk them up and lend a tang. You can make your own chaat masala but, to be honest, the shop-bought varieties are so good that it’s not really worth the time and effort. Look out for them in Asian grocers or online.

CHAPATTI FLOUR

Also known as atta, this wholewheat flour is used in households all over the subcontinent to make chapattis and Indian breads. It is available in large supermarkets, Asian stores and online.

CHILLI POWDER

There are many varieties to choose from and the heat level varies. See Kashmiri red chillies.

CLOVES

The aromatic dried flower buds of a tree, cloves have a warm, sweet and peppery flavour that lends itself well to meat dishes and curries. They can be used whole or powdered and have a shelf life of up to a year. You can grind cloves yourself, if necessary, but make sure to use the powder sparingly as the flavour can be quite intense.

COCONUT

Many coastal recipes in India use freshly grated coconut, which can be found in Asian supermarkets (although it is usually frozen). A good alternative is dessicated coconut, but if you’re using it for a curry paste, it’s a good idea to soak it in warm water for a couple of minutes before using, then drain and use as required. Doing this will inject that much-needed moisture to the paste.

COCONUT MILK

An integral feature of many curries, canned coconut milk is something that’s always worth keeping at hand. More often than not, recipes will call for only a small amount – not worth opening a whole can for. In this case, I opt for coconut milk powder, which can be bought in large supermarkets and online. Just mix a few tablespoons with warm water for the amount of coconut milk required.

CORIANDER SEEDS

The small brown seeds of the coriander plant are often dried and used whole in pickles and curries, but can also be ground. Their citrus note, detectable when crushed or dry-fried in a warm pan, is very different from that of fresh coriander leaves.

CORNFLOUR

A finely powdered white starch used as a thickening agent and even as a coating.

CUMIN SEEDS

Also known as jeera, cumin seeds are one of the most essential ingredients of Indian cooking. Used whole, they lend their warm nutty flavour and beautiful aroma to steamed rice dishes and curries. Cumin can also be used dry-roasted, coarsely ground or powdered and added to chutneys and breads.

DAL

The word ‘dal’ applies to the many forms of pulses used in Indian cooking. Toor dal (also known as split pigeon peas or arhar dal) is very commonly used in lentil curries. Being thicker than other lentils, it makes the resulting dal creamier. Channa dal (yellow dried split peas) is also used in Indian curries. This particular lentil holds its shape whilst making the curry quite thick, so is perfect when added to recipes such as Lamb Dalcha or hearty lentil curries such as Tadka Dal. Masoor dal (split red lentils) is really quick to cook, probably the reason it’s one of the most commonly used lentils in Indian cooking. It’s often used to make a basic tadka dal or even a south Indian sambar. Urad dal (split black lentils) is also used in snacks and curries. When ground to a flour, it’s a key ingredient in dosas.

FENNEL SEEDS

The dried seeds of the fennel herb (Foeniculum vulgare) have a liquorice flavour and are used in many Indian dishes, including pickles and desserts. When gound to a powder, they have an aniseed aroma and a well-rounded flavour that goes well with curries. Fennel seeds are often served after Indian meals to aid digestion, but these are a different type from those used in cooking.

FENUGREEK

The leaves of fresh fenugreek (methi) have a slightly bitter, savoury taste and are commonly eaten as part of a vegetarian diet, along with lentils, potatoes and bread. The dried leaves are also used to flavour curries and pickles, and to complement vegetarian dishes. Fenugreek seeds are angular, slightly pungent and are also used in curries and pickles.

GRAM FLOUR

Also known as besan, this pale yellow, finely ground flour is made from chickpeas. Use it for curries, breads and in batters or as a thickening agent.

GREEN CARDAMOM

Unlike its black counterpart (see here), green cardomom is used in sweet as well as savoury dishes. One of the most expensive spices in the world, it is available as whole green pods which encase its black seeds within. The seeds can be freshly gound using a pestle and mortar to add aromatic flavour to desserts and curries. They can also be bought ready-ground, but this form is not as full-flavoured.

JAGGERY

Also known as gud, jaggery is unrefined sugar made from sugar cane. It is used mainly in desserts, but as it is less sweet than its refined counterpart, it also features in breads and curries. Jaggery can vary in colour from pale yellow to dark brown, and is available in block and powdered form. I prefer to buy a block as it imparts a lovely treacle-like stickiness when added to dishes.

KASHMIRI CHILLIES

These mild red chillies come in many forms: fresh, dried or ground. The last of these, also known as deggi mirch, is my favoured chilli powder. It doesn’t impart too much heat and is very high in colour, which for me is important in Indian cooking. A good alternative is mild paprika, but if you opt for this, always complement it with a touch of cayenne pepper, as it doesn’t have the required heat when used on its own. Kashmiri chillies in all their forms are readily available from Asian grocers, spice shops and online, and I recommend using them wherever recipes require ‘dried mild chilli’ because, when fried in oil, they impart a deep smoky flavour. Some recipes in this book also use whole dried chillies in marinades, in which case, soak them in warm water for a few minutes before blitzing them to a smooth paste.

KOKUM

The dried skin of the mangosteen fruit, kokum is used in coastal dishes in place of lemon juice or tamarind paste. The dried whole berries are tart, astringent and lend sourness not just to curries but also to drinks. Kokum is widely used in Maharashtrian cooking, and also in Gujarati and southern Indian dishes. Soak it in warm water before use to extract its sour flavour for curries.

MACE

The lace-like covering that surrounds a nutmeg kernel, mace is dried and sold as blade or in ground form. It has a more delicate flavour than nutmeg and is ideally used in fragrant biryanis and spice blends.

MUSTARD OIL

Also known as sarson ka tel, this pungent oil is used by a lot of communities in India, most notably in Bengal and Rajasthan. Its flavour and preserving properties mean that it is a common ingredient in Indian pickles. The thing to remember when using mustard oil in Europe is to heat it to smoking point, then allow it to cool before proceeding to use it as required – this will get rid of any impurities. Mustard oil is available in large supermarkets and Asian stores.

NUTMEG

The large dried kernel of a tree native to Indonesia, nutmeg comes from the same plant as mace, and its warm, spicy aroma is integral to a wide range of sweet and savoury Indian dishes. For the best flavour, always use freshly grated nutmeg rather than using ready-ground.

PANCH PURAN

Also known as panch phoron and Bengali five-spice, this is a unique spice mixture from eastern India. It includes equal quantities of five different seeds – onion, cumin, fennel, fenugreek and mustard – and can be shop-bought.

POMEGRANATE

Known as anardana in India, pomegranate is used in many forms. The seeds may be sun-dried and used whole or ground to impart a sweet, tangy flavour to kebabs, curries, raitas, chutneys and dals. Also, a thick, treacly syrup called pomegranate molasses is extracted from the inner seeds of the fruit and is commonly used in curries. All forms of pomegranate are available in many delis or online.

RICE FLOUR

Made from finely milled rice grains, rice flour is perfect for pancakes or even southern Indian breads. In western India it is also used in batters to give a really crisp coating. Being gluten-free, it’s a useful alternative to wheat flour for those who are gluten-intolerant.

ROSE WATER

The lovely perfumed flavour of rose water is used not only in desserts but also to sprinkle over decadent curries and even biryanis. It is available from pharmacies, Asian stores and online.

SAFFRON

The most expensive spice in the world, saffron is the dried strands of the crocus flower. It imparts a really strong flavour and beautiful colour to both savoury and sweet dishes.  I have always used strands rather than ground saffron, and, more often than not, they need to be soaked for a few minutes in warm water to help release their colour and flavour.

SEMOLINA

A yellow flour made by grinding durum wheat, semolina is very useful when coating food before frying. Always, always use coarse semolina, known as suji, not the fine variety also available.

STAR ANISE

Red-brown in colour and prettily shaped like an eight-pointed star or flower, this dried spice imparts a strong aniseed flavour. It is available whole or ground and is used in many Indian stews and curries.

TAMARIND

The tart, dark brown paste extracted from the pod-like fruit of the tamarind tree is a souring agent, used in curries to add a touch of acidity, while also imparting colour and thickness to the gravy. Tamarind is sold in the form of paste, concentrate and blocks. Most of my recipes specify paste rather than concentrate because the latter has a deeper flavour. However, as even the pastes tend to vary in strength according to brand, some being a lot stronger than others, it’s worth tasting what you have bought before you add it. Adjust the quantity as necessary and taste your curry to make sure the tamarind has added the required flavour.

TURMERIC

Also known as haldi, this bright yellow spice from the turmeric plant is used in powdered form. In Indian cooking it adds colour to dishes and is also valued for its antiseptic properties.

VEGETABLE/SUNFLOWER OIL

Many people assume that ghee (clarified butter) is the favoured fat for Indian cooking, but that is not the case. It is, in fact, used sparingly, an occasional indulgence, and I always recommend using vegetable or sunflower oil instead. These are readily available and, being flavourless and colourless, are ideal when you are preparing dishes that contain many other flavours. Most importantly, though, they have a high smoking point, which is essential when frying spices.

VINEGAR

Commonly used as a souring agent, vinegar is available in many varieties and is used in a wide range of Indian dishes. Malt vinegar is a good option when recipes don’t specify any type in particular. In a few of my recipes I have used Goan coconut vinegar, which is made from coconut toddy (palm wine) and matured for a few months in clay pots. It is available from delis, spice shops and online. White wine vinegar can be used instead.

YOGHURT

Most of my recipes use natural yoghurt or Greek yoghurt, but in both cases I always tend to use the full-fat types because they have a richer, creamier texture. When using them in marinades or curries, though, make sure to whisk lightly first to prevent them from splitting (a hazard when they are thick and fatty).

 Fresh ingredients

As you might imagine, onions, garlic, coriander, chillies and ginger are among the essentials in this list. When it’s flavour you’re looking for, these are the fresh ingredients to rely on.

CHILLIES

Ranging from mild to very hot, the heat of chillies resides in the seeds and the white membrane. In Indian curries, fresh green chillies are slit open lengthways to flavour the dish and lend a little bit of heat, while still keeping the chilli itself intact. Those preferred in this book are usually green bird’s eye chillies. Home-made chilli paste (made by pounding fresh chillies using a pestle and mortar) can be refrigerated and will keep for 4–5 days. Ready-made paste (useful when time is tight) is a handy standby.

CORIANDER

This fresh herb is integral to Indian cooking, being used in curries and also as a garnish. With its lovely aroma and citrus taste, it’s easy to see why so many recipes in this book use the stems as well as the leaves.

CURRY LEAVES

Aromatic and at their best when used fresh, curry leaves (karipatta) are an essential part of coastal cooking. Use them whole to flavour oils and curries, or lightly bruised to release their citrus note. Stored in an airtight bag, curry leaves freeze well, but always use them straight from frozen rather than defrosted to avoid discoloration. Dried curry leaves are also available and are brilliant in chutneys and pickles, or as a garnish alongside coriander leaves.

GARLIC

Whole cloves of garlic are used in pickles and sometimes even curries, but more usually chopped, sliced and puréed to a paste that freezes well. Jars of ready-chopped garlic are available from supermarkets and can be a useful back-up.

GINGER

A pungent, knobbly root with pale yellow skin, fresh ginger is often used as a garnish, but may also be sliced, grated or chopped and stirred into curries to add an underlying warmth. The fresh root can also be puréed to a paste that freezes well. These days jars of ready-chopped fresh ginger are available from supermarkets, and are time-savers when you’re in a hurry. Powdered ginger is commonly used in Indian dishes and has a distincitve warmth and flavour to it. Stem ginger preserved in sweet syrup is delicious in desserts and cakes.

GREEN MANGOES

Also known as kairi or kacha aam, green or unripe mangoes are commonly used in chutneys, pickles and curries to impart a sour tangy flavour. They are available from many Asian stores and online. Dried mango is ground into a powder called amchoor.

LEMONS/LIMES

Indian lemons are very small and have a lovely zesty flavour. In the UK I find that limes have a similar taste and are a perfect substitute in Indian recipes, especially my Nimbu Pani (see here), which certainly calls for the extra sharpness of limes. I tend to use lemons only for garnish or if I require a very small amount of acidity.

MINT

Highly valued in Indian cooking for its refreshing flavour and vibrant colour, mint is often used in chutneys, marinades and garnishes.

ONIONS

In this book I generally use white onions for cooking and red onions for salads and garnishes. White onions tend to be more pungent and slightly stronger in flavour, but make a great base for curries as they turn a lovely dark brown colour when fried.

PANEER

Mild, unsalted Indian cottage cheese (paneer) is made from milk curdled with lemon juice or vinegar. White, soft and crumbly, it’s very popular in Indian curries, stir-fries and kebabs, especially with vegetarians. Shop-bought paneer is widely available in supermarkets, but you can also easily make it yourself if you prefer .

TOMATOES/TOMATO PURÉE

Tomatoes are wonderfully versatile. They don’t just lend a vibrant red colour to dishes, but also thicken gravies and give a certain amount of tang. I have used tomato purée rather than fresh tomatoes in a few recipes as it has a much more concentrated flavour and consistency.

Written by Maunika Gowardhan in "Indian Kitchen - Secrets of Indian Home Cooking", Hodder & Stoughton (an Hachette UK company), London, 2015. Digitized, adapted and illustrated to be posted by Leopoldo Costa.